The Kiah Cardigan Crochet Pattern

What’s better to kick off the new year than a brand new crochet cardigan?! The Kiah Cardigan is definitely in the top 5 of my favorite patterns. I hope you guys love it just as much as I do!

I used Heartland yarn for The Kiah cardigan. I love this yarn so much I try to design at least one awesome cardigan with it each year! This time I’m using the color Wolf Trap. I actually ordered this yarn a while back to make something completely different with it. When it came in the mail it had a pinker hue than what I was expecting and it didn’t go with the other colors on my project. It was absolutely beautiful though, so I shelved it for a later date. I’m so glad I kept it because I think it’s perfect for this design.

The Kiah Cardigan is worked from the bottom up in separate panels. You can easily make your cardigan longer or shorter by adding or removing as many rows as you want on the back and front panels. I think a cropped version would be super cute too! You might recognize the stitch used as the same one in my Winter Moonlight Set! I fell in love with the texture of it and knew that I had to make a cardigan!

I have a full video tutorial available if you are a beginner and need a little extra help! Be sure to check it out and subscribe so I can bring you guys more free tutorials and content!

Links:

Description: The Kiah Cardigan is just what you need for your next project. The pattern uses a fun stitch repeat that gives your cardigan a beautiful and squishy texture. It has a loose fit so you can stay cozy and comfy all day!

Materials:

  • Worsted Weight (4) Yarn, Lion Brand Heartland in Wolf Trap 7(7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 10) skeins or 1600(1640, 1720, 1810, 1900, 2010, 2100 2200, 2280) yards

  • I/5.5mm Crochet Hook

  • Needle

  • Scissors

  • Stitch Markers (3)

Gauge:

15 Sts (5 St repeats within pattern) by 10 rows = 4×4” (blocked)

1 St repeat= 1 Sc, 1 Hdc, 1 Dc in same St, Sk 2

To make a gauge swatch- Crochet 25 Fsc and work Row 2 of main body of the back panel for 12 rows. Block square and measure 4×4” within that square.

Sizes:

Pattern is written as XS(S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

Finished Measurements:

the kiah cardigan

the kiah cardigan

Notes:

  • This pattern is written from the bottom up in separate panels.

  • The Ch 1 at the beginning of the row does not count as a St.

  • You can make your cardigan longer or shorter by adding or removing as many rows as needed on both the back panel and front panels. Take into account your yardage requirement will change.

  • You can make your sleeves longer or shorter by adding or removing as many rows as needed. Again, take into account your yardage requirement will change.

  • If you don’t want pockets on your cardigan, simply skip the Ch Sp and continue along the row with the regular stitch repeat.

  • The numbers in parenthesis at the beginning of the row are the row counts for all sizes. The numbers in parenthesis at the end of the rows are your stitch counts for all sizes. The numbers in parenthesis within the row are your instructions for all sizes.

Video Link:

Check out the full video tutorial for some extra help!

Stitches and Abbreviations (US Terms):

Fsc- Foundation Single Crochet

Sc- Single Crochet

Ch- Chain

BLO- Back Loop Only

FLO- Front Loop Only

St(s)- Stitch(es)

RS- Right Side

WS- Wrong Side

Hdc- Half Double Crochet

Dc- Double Crochet

Sk- Skip

Sp- Space

Pattern:

Back Panel-

Row 1: 10 Fsc, turn. (10 Sc) Alternatively, you can Ch 11, work 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and across for 10 Sc.

Rows 2-76(82, 88, 97, 103, 112, 118, 124, 130): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across until one St remains, 1 Sc in final St, turn. (10 Sc)

Do not turn after your last row, we will now be working Row 1 of the main body of the panel into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Row 1 (RS): Work 1 Sc into the end of each row across the ribbing, turn. (76(82, 88, 97, 103, 112, 118, 124, 130) Sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, Work 1 Sc, 1 Hdc and 1 Dc all into the first St, *Sk 2 Sts, [1 Sc, 1 Hdc, 1 Dc] into next St* repeat from * to * across row until 3 Sts remain, Sk 2 Sts, 1 Sc in final St, turn. (76(82, 88, 97, 103, 112, 118, 124, 130) Sts)

Rows 3-59(61, 61, 61, 63, 63, 63, 65, 65): Repeat Row 2.

Fasten off.

Front Panel (make 2)-

Row 1: 10 Fsc, turn. (10 Sc) Alternatively, you can Ch 11, work 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and across for 10 Sc.

Rows 2-31(34, 37, 40, 43, 49, 52, 55, 58): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across until one St remains, 1 Sc in final St, turn. (10 Sc)

Do not turn after your last row, we will now be working Row 1 of the main body of the panel into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Row 1 (RS): Work 1 Sc into the end of each row across the ribbing, turn. (31(34, 37, 40, 43, 49, 52, 55, 58) Sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, Work 1 Sc, 1 Hdc and 1 Dc all into the first St, *Sk 2 Sts, [1 Sc, 1 Hdc, 1 Dc] into next St* repeat from * to * across row until 3 Sts remain, Sk 2 Sts, 1 Sc in final St, turn. (31(34, 37, 40, 43, 49, 52, 55, 58) Sts)

Rows 3-16: Repeat Row 2.

Row 17: Ch 1, work 1 Sc, 1 Hdc and 1 Dc into first St, Sk 2 *[1 Sc, 1 Hdc, 1 Dc] in next, Sk 2,* repeat from * to * 0(0, 0, 1, 1, 2, ,3, 3, 4) more times, 1 Sc in next St, Ch 17(20, 23, 20, 23, 23, 20, 23, 20), Sk 17(20, 23, 20, 23, 23, 20, 23, 20) Sts, [1 Sc, 1 Hdc, 1 Dc] in next, continue regular St repeat across row, ending with 1 Sc in last St like normal, turn. (14(14, 14, 20, 20, 26, 32, 32, 38 Sts, and 17(20, 23, 20, 23, 23, 20, 23, 20) Chs)

Row 18: Repeat Row 2, when you reach the Ch Sp, work your Sts into the Chs like normal, treating it like a regular St. (31(34, 37, 40, 43, 49, 52, 55, 58) Sts)

Rows 19-59(61, 61, 61, 63, 63, 63, 65, 65): Repeat Row 2.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing last row to back panel.

Sleeves (make 2)-

Row 1: 10 Fsc, turn. (10 Sc) Alternatively, you can Ch 11, work 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and across for 10 Sc.

Rows 2-28(28, 29, 31, 32, 34, 35, 37, 37) : Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across until one St remains, 1 Sc in final St, turn. (10 Sc)

Do not turn after your last row, we will now be working Row 1 of the main body of the panel into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Row 1 (RS): Work 1(1, 2, 1, 2, 1, 2, 1, 1) Sc into the end of the first ribbing row, work 2 Sc into the end of each of the remaining rows across, turn. (55(55, 58, 61, 64, 67, 70, 73, 73) Sc)

Your sleeve is going to look wavy and crazy at this point. Don’t worry, that’s normal!

Row 2: Ch 1, Work 1 Sc, 1 Hdc and 1 Dc all into the first St, *Sk 2 Sts, [1 Sc, 1 Hdc, 1 Dc] into next St * repeat from * to * across row until 3 Sts remain, Sk 2 Sts, 1 Sc in final St, turn. (55(55, 58, 61, 64, 67, 70, 73, 73) Sts)

Rows 3-43(43, 43, 43, 43, 41, 41, 41, 41): Repeat Row 2.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing last row to the front and back panels. Note- This is an oversized drop-sleeve style cardigan. The wider the front/back panels are, the shorter the sleeve needs to be because they join further down your bicep. That’s why the smaller sizes have more rows than the larger. You an easily adjust your sleeve length by adding or taking away as many rows as needed.

Pockets (make 2)-

Row 1: 19(22, 25, 22, 25, 25, 22, 25, 22) Fsc, turn. 19(22, 25, 22, 25, 25, 22, 25, 22) Sc) Alternatively, you can Ch 1 more than the number listed above, work 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and each Ch across for the same amount of Sts.

Rows 2-24: Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St across, turn.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing all 4 sides of pocket to cardigan. The first row of your pocket should line up with Row 1 of the main body of the front panel and the last row should line up with Row 18. You can add or remove as many rows to this panel if you need to make adjustments.

Joining Panels-

Block your panels to the measurements listed above. I recommend a steam block.

Place your front and back panels together RS facing.
Using your preferred seaming method attach the front panels to the back panel at the shoulders (I used my hook and slip stitched across through the outer loops only). Be sure your panels are aligned and that you aren’t bunching or skipping stitches.
Next, using the same joining process as above, we will be attaching the sleeves to the cardigan. Make sure the center of the sleeve is aligned

with the shoulder seam. Be sure to check that your sleeves are even on both the front and back panel as you go. It is helpful to use SM’s here to keep your sleeve in place as you join.
Finally, fold your cardigan so that the back and front panels are on top of each other, RS facing. Seam from the cuffs to the underarm and down the side of the cardigan.

kiah cardigan Crochet Pattern

Kiah Caridgan Crochet Pattern

Sew Pockets-

Now, you will be sewing your pockets to the inside of the front panels using a sewing needle. Place your pocket on the WS (inside) of the cardigan. Line it up so that the top of the pocket is aligned with Row 18. You will be sewing the top of the pocket to that row/just above it. The bottom of the pocket panel should line up with the top of the ribbing at Row 1 of the front panel. I recommend pinning your pocket in place. With your needle, sew all 4 sides. Make sure you don’t stick your needle all the way through to the front so that the seam is not visible on the outside. Don’t tug your stitches too tight. Be sure to view the video tutorial if you need a visual on how to sew the pocket. Tie off and repeat on other side.

Add Trim-

With your cardigan RS out, join yarn with a Sl St to the bottom corner of the left panel (right when worn).

Row 1: Ch 1, Sc evenly up the side of the front panel, across the back neckline, and down the side of the second front panel, turn. Exact St count is not crucial here, just try to keep your Sts even. I worked approximately 1 Sc into then end of each row along the sides of the front panels.

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 Sc (FLO) in each St across, turn.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Kiah Cardigan Crochet Pattern

The Kiah Cardigan Crochet Pattern

 

CODE: KIAH

About The Author

Rachel Misner