The Moonblush Pullover Crochet Pattern

It’s that time…time for a brand new pullover using Heartland yarn! The Moonblush Pullover crochet pattern is quickly becoming a favorite.

If you like some of my other pullovers like The Foggy Shore or The Maeve...then you will love the Moonblush too! I used my favorite color of Heartland- wolf trap. It looks almost tan in the storefront photos but in real life, it’s a beautiful soft blush color. If you want to get yarn for your pullover then be sure to check out the kit! You can pick any of the beautiful colors that they have. The kit also includes a free copy of the downloadable pattern.

I worked this sweater from the bottom up in separate panels. You’ll begin with the ribbing before moving onto the main body of the panel. My goal for this design was to use all sorts of different variations of the Hdc St. Normal Hdc, Ehdc, front and back post Hdc, working a Ehdc in between st posts, a Hdc cross stitch etc. I really wanted to make something that was interesting and keeps you on your toes! It was a lot of fun messing around with the different stitches and there placement. Be sure to count your rows after each “section” of different stitches. You don’t want to miss one! I show everything in my full video tutorial!

After you make your ribbing, please don’t try to measure it and compare with the size chart. The ribbing is not an accurate measurement of the gauge/sizing. It is 100% normal for it to be less wide, then, when you begin to work the main body your sweater panel will gradually grow wider! It’s supposed to! For this particular design, you might see the edges of the panel are not perfectly straight the whole way up. This is because of all the different stitches we are using. It should only be slight, if at all. This is totally fine, a quick steam block, seam the panels together and ta-da!

You can easily add or remove rows to any of the panels to adjust the length. Want a longer sweater? Just add as many ehdc rows to the back panel before you begin the shaping. Add the same amount to the front panel before the shaping. Same goes for the sleeves, just add or remove rows!

Links:

• Check out The Moonblush Pullover as a kit with Lion Brand! The kit includes all the yarn to make your sweater plus a free copy of the PDF digital download of the crochet pattern. You can even customize your colors.

• A full video tutorial for The Moonblush Pullover is available on my YouTube Channel. If you are a beginner or just need a visual then check it out! Be sure to subscribe for more free content.

• The Moonblush Pullover crochet pattern ad-free printable is in my Etsy shop.

• Save the Moonblush Pullover crochet pattern to your Ravelry queue or purchase the PDF pattern.

Description:

The Moonblush Pullover is a dreamy, texture-rich sweater designed to feel as beautiful to wear as it is to make. Using half double crochet stitches in a variety of creative placements, this pullover features subtle, eye-catching texture throughout the fabric. Classic ribbed details at the hem, cuffs, and neckline give the sweater a timeless, cozy finish, while the stitch variations keep every row engaging without feeling complicated. Thoughtfully designed for comfort and wearability, the Moonblush Pullover is a piece you’ll reach for again and again. Video tutorial included.

Materials:

• Worsted (4) Weight Yarn, Heartland in Wolf Trap, 5(5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) Skeins or 1150(1220, 1310, 1400, 1510, 1600, 1720, 1830, 1900) Yards

• I/5.5mm Crochet Hook

• Needle

• Scissors

• Measuring Tape

• Stitch Markers (3)

Gauge:

12.5 Ehdc (working between Sts) by 8 rows= 4×4”

To create a gauge swatch work 16 Ehdc Sts. Then, work 10 rows of Ehdc in between the Sts of the previous row. Your swatch will be larger than the gauge required. Measure 4×4” within that swatch to check gauge.

Sizes:

XS(S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

Video Link:

Need a little extra help? Check out my full video tutorial!

Notes:

• This sweater is made in separate panels from the bottom up.

• The Ch 2 at the start of the row does not count as a stitch.

• You can make your sweater longer or shorter by adding or removing rows, just before the neckline shaping on both the back panel and front panel. Take into account your yardage requirement will change.

• You can make your sleeves longer or shorter by adding or removing rows before fastening off. Again, take into account your yardage requirement will change.

• The numbers in parenthesis at the beginning of the row are the row counts for all sizes. The numbers in parenthesis at the end of the rows are your stitch counts for all sizes. The numbers in parenthesis within the row are your instructions for all sizes.

• When the pattern indicates to work a St “2 rows below”, It simply means instead of working your st into the st from the previous row, go down 1 more row below that and work it into that St.

• When the pattern indicates to work your St “in between stitches”, it simply means to work your St in between the actual stitches from the previous row, not the top of the stitch like you normally would.

Stitches and Abbreviations (US Terms):

Ch- Chain

St(s)- Stitch(es)

Sc- Single Crochet

BLO- Back Loop Only

Ehdc- Extended Half Double Crochet (Yo, insert hook into indicated St/Sp, YO and pull up a loop, YO and pull through the first loop only, YO and pull through all 3 loops)

Ehdc2tog- Extended Half Double Crochet 2 Together (YO, insert hook in between the 2 indicated Sts, YO and pull up a loop, YO, pull through the first loop only, YO, insert your hook in between the next 2 indicated Sts, YO and pull up a loop, YO, pull through the first loop only, YO and pull through all loops on hook)

Hdc- Half Double Crochet

Sk- Skip

Bphdc-Back Post Half Double Crochet

Fphdc- Front Post Half Double Crochet

YO- Yarn Over

Sl St- Slip Stitch

SM- Stitch Marker

RS- Right Side

Pattern:

Back Panel-

Ch 11

Row 1: 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and each Ch across, turn. (10 Sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 Sc in the first St, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across until 1 remains, 1 Sc in final St, turn. (10 Sc)

Rows 3-64(72, 76, 82, 86, 92, 96, 100, 104): Repeat Row 2.

Do not turn after the last row made. We will now be working Row 1 of the main body into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Row 1(RS): Ch 2 (does not count here and throughout), 1 Ehdc into the end of each row across, turn. (64(72, 76, 82, 86, 92, 96, 100, 104) Ehdc)

Row 2: Ch 2, 1 Hdc in first St, *Sk next St, 1 Hdc in following, go back and work 1 Hdc around the post of the previous St*, repeat from * to * across until 1 St remains, 1 Hdc in last St, turn. (64(72, 76, 82, 86, 92, 96, 100, 104) Hdc)

Row 3: Ch 2, 1 Ehdc in each St across, turn. (64(72, 76, 82, 86, 92, 96, 100, 104) Ehdc)

Row 4: Repeat Row 2.

Row 5: Repeat Row 3.

Rows 6-10: Ch 2, 1 Ehdc in between each St across the row, your last Ehdc will be in between the last St and the Ch 2, turn. (64(72, 76, 82, 86, 92, 96, 100, 104) Ehdc)

Row 11: Ch 2, 1 Hdc in each St across, turn. (64(72, 76, 82, 86, 92, 96, 100, 104) Hdc)

Row 12: Ch 2, 1 Hdc in first St, *1 Hdc in St from 2 rows below, 1 Hdc in next St*, repeat from * to * across row until 1 St remains, 1 Hdc in last St, turn. (64(72, 76, 82, 86, 92, 96, 100, 104) Hdc)

Rows 13-16: Repeat Row 12.

Row 17-21: Repeat Row 11.

Row 22: Ch 2, 1 Hdc in first St, *Sk next St, 1 Hdc in following, go back and work 1 Hdc into the skipped St*, repeat from * to * across until 1 St remains, 1 Hdc in last. (64(72, 76, 82, 86, 92, 96, 100, 104) Hdc)

Rows 23-27: Repeat Row 11.

Row 28: Ch 2, 1 Hdc in first, *1 Fphdc in next St, 1 Bphdc in following*, repeat from * to * across row until 1 St remains, 1 Hdc in last St, turn. (64(72, 76, 82, 86, 92, 96, 100, 104) Sts)

Rows 29 & 30: Repeat Row 11.

Row 31: Repeat Row 28.

Rows 32-36: Repeat Row 11.

Row 37: Repeat Row 22.

Row 38: Repeat Row 3.

Rows 39-44(44, 46, 46, 48, 48, 50, 50, 52: Ch 2, 1 Ehdc in between each St across the row, your last Ehdc will be in between the last St and the Ch 2, turn. (64(72, 76, 82, 86, 92, 96, 100, 104) Ehdc)

We will now be splitting the neckline. If you are making adjustments to the length of your sweater, do so here before moving on to the neckline shaping. Add or remove Ehdc rows in multiples of 2.

Row 45(45, 47, 47, 49, 49, 51, 51, 53): Ch 2, 18(22, 24, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38) Ehdc in between each St across, leave remaining Sts unworked, turn. (18(22, 24, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38) Ehdc)

Row 46(46, 48, 48, 50, 50, 52, 52, 54): Ch 2, 1 Ehdc in between each St across, your last Ehdc will be in between the last St and the Ch 2, turn. (18(22, 24, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38) Ehdc)

Fasten off.

Opposite Shoulder-

With your finished shoulder on the right hand side, count in from left to right (18(22, 24, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38) Sts. Join with a Sl St in between Sts.

Rows 45(45, 47, 47, 49, 49, 51, 51, 53) & 46(46, 48, 48, 50, 50, 52, 52, 54): Ch 2, 1 Ehdc in between each St across, turn, your last Ehdc will be in between the last St and the Ch 2, turn. (18(22, 24, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38) Ehdc)

Fasten off.

Front Panel-

Repeat ribbing rows 1-64(72, 76, 82, 86, 92, 96, 100, 104) and main body rows 1-41(41, 43, 43, 45, 45, 47, 47, 49) of the back panel.

We will now be splitting the neckline. If you made adjustments in length to the back panel, be sure to add or remove the same amount of rows here before proceeding with the following rows.

Row 42(42, 44, 44, 46, 46, 48, 48, 50): Ch 2, 20(24, 26, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40) Ehdc in between each St across, leave remaining Sts unworked, turn. (20(24, 26, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40) Ehdc)

Row 43(43, 45, 45, 47, 47, 49, 49, 51): Ch 2, 1 Ehdc in between each St across, your last Ehdc will be in between the last St and the Ch 2, turn. (20(24, 26, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40) Ehdc)

Row 44(44, 46, 46, 48, 48, 50, 50, 52): Ch 2, 1 Ehdc in between each St across until 3 Sts remain, Ehdc2tog, 1 Ehdc in last (still working in between Sts), turn. (19 (23, 25, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39) Ehdc)

Row 45(45, 47, 47, 49, 49, 51, 51, 53): Ch 2, 1 Ehdc in first (between Sts), Ehdc2tog (between Sts), 1 Ehdc in between remaining Sts across, turn. (18(22, 24, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38) Ehdc)

Row 46(46, 48, 48, 50, 50, 52, 52, 54): Ch 2, 1 Ehdc in between each St across. (18(22, 24, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38) Ehdc)

Fasten off, leave a tail long enough to seam the last row made to your back panel.

Opposite Shoulder-

With finished shoulder on the right hand side, count in from left to right (20(24, 26, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40) Sts. Join with a Sl St in between Sts.

Row 42(42, 44, 44, 46, 46, 48, 48, 50): Ch 2, 1 Ehdc in between each St across, your last Ehdc will be in between the last St and the Ch 2, turn. (20(24, 26, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40) Ehdc)

Row 43(43, 45, 45, 47, 47, 49, 49, 51): Repeat previous row.

Row 44(44, 46, 46, 48, 48, 50, 50, 52): Ch 2, 1 Ehdc in first (between Sts), Ehdc2tog (between Sts), 1 Ehdc in between remaining Sts across, turn. (19 (23, 25, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39) Ehdc)

Row 45(45, 47, 47, 49, 49, 51, 51, 53): Ch 2, 1 Ehdc in between each St across until 3 Sts remain, Ehdc2tog, 1 Ehdc in last (still working in between Sts), turn. (18(22, 24, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38) Ehdc)

Row 46(46, 48, 48, 50, 50, 52, 52, 54): Ch 2, 1 Ehdc in between each St across. (18(22, 24, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38) Ehdc)

Fasten off, leave a tail long enough to seam the last row made to your back panel.

Sleeves (make 2):

Ch 11

Row 1: 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and each Ch across, turn. (10 Sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 Sc in the first St, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across until 1 remains, 1 Sc in final St, turn. (10 Sc)

Rows 3-24(25, 25, 26, 27, 27, 28, 30, 30): Repeat Row 2.

Do not turn after the last row made. We will now be working Row 1 of the main body of the sleeve into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Row 1: Ch 2 (does not count here and throughout), 2 Ehdc into the end of each row across, turn. (48(50, 50, 52, 54, 54, 56, 60, 60) Ehdc)

Your sleeve will be wavy at this point, don’t worry, its supposed to! It’ll straighten out as we crochet along.

Rows 2-42(41, 41, 40, 40, 39, 39, 38, 38): Repeat Rows 2-42(41, 41, 40, 40, 39, 39, 38, 38) of the back panel.

Fasten off, leave a tail long enough to sew the last row made to your sweater.

Note- This is a drop-shoulder style sweater. The wider the front/back panels are, the shorter the sleeve needs to be because they join further down your bicep. That’s why the smaller sizes have more rows than the larger. You an easily adjust your sleeve length by adding or taking away as many rows as needed.

Assembly-

Block your panels to the measurements listed above. I recommend a steam block.
Place your front and back panels together RS facing.
Using your preferred seaming method attach the front panel to the back panel at the shoulders. I used my needle and mattress stitch but you can use any preferred seaming method. Be sure your panels are aligned and that you aren’t bunching or skipping stitches.

Next, using the same joining process as above, we will be attaching the sleeves to the sweater. Make sure the center of the sleeve is aligned with the shoulder seam. Be sure to check that your sleeves are even on both the front and back panel as you go. It is helpful to use SM’s here to

keep your sleeve in place as you join.

Finally, fold your pullover so that the back and front panels are on top of each other, RS facing. Seam from the cuffs to the underarm and down the side of the pullover.

Neckline Ribbing-

With your pullover RS out, join yarn with a Sl St to the left of one of the shoulder seams.

Round 1: Ch 1, Sc evenly around the opening of the neckline, Sl St to first Sc to join, do not turn. Exact St count is not crucial here, work 1 Sc into each of the Sts, when you reach the sides of the rows where you did the shaping, you will work approximately 2 Sc into the sides of each row. Feel free to make small St adjustments if you feel you need a couple more or less to complete around.

Ch 6

Row 1: Work 1 Sc into the second Ch from the hook and each Ch across back towards the sweater for a total of 5 Sc. Sl St 1 time to the next unworked St of Round 1, turn. (5 Sc)

Row 2: (do not start with a Ch) 1 Sc (BLO) in first 4 Sts, 1 Sc in last, turn. (5 Sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc (BLO) in next 4 Sts, 1 Sl St into the next unworked St of the neckline, then work 1 more Sl St into the next St after that, turn. (5 Sc, 2 Sl St)

Repeat Rows 2 & 3 around Round 1 of the neckline. Depending on if you had an odd or even Sc St count in Round 1 you will either have 1 or 2 Sc remaining after you work your way around. If 2 remain, Sl St twice like normal and complete your last 2 rows. If 1 St remains, Sl St once into the remaining St and complete 1 more ribbing row. Fold the collar together, RS facing, Sl St the first and last row together to seam shut.

Fasten off, weave in any remaining ends.

CODE: MOON