This is an updated version of my Foggy Shores Pullover design! The original version used a discontinued yarn, so I’ve recreated it here using a readily available yarn with a similar look and feel, Heartland! The fit and style remain the same, with only slight adjustments to the sleeve and gauge. If you’d like to see the original post, you can find it here. I’ll be leaving the old post and video tutorial up for reference!
The Foggy Shores Pullover was always one of my faves and gets lots of love in the fall and wintertime! I wanted to re-make it in Heartland yarn which is a fan favorite and always readily available to customers. You can now find the kit up on Lion Brand using Heartland yarn if you want to check it out!
I love working this one up because it uses Lemon Peel stitch which gives it such a beautiful texture. I gave it a fun yet subtle fade by breaking it up with spaced out Hdc rows. If this is your first time coming upon this sweater, I hope you’ll give it a go! If you are a beginner, be sure to check out my refreshed video tutorial for extra help.
The Foggy Shores Pullover combines a subtle stitch fade with a timeless oversized fit, finished with ribbed cuffs and hem for comfort and style. This design comes with a complete video tutorial for easy and relaxed making.
This sweater is worked from the bottom up in separate panels.
The Ch 1 does not count as a St.
The Ch 2 does not count as a St.
You can make your sweater longer or shorter by adding or removing as many rows as needed on both the back panel and front panel. Take into account your yardage requirement will change.
You can make your sleeves longer or shorter by adding or removing as many rows as needed. Again, take into account your yardage requirement will change.
The numbers in parenthesis at the beginning of the row are row counts for all sizes. The numbers in parenthesis at the end of the rows are your stitch counts for all sizes. The numbers in parenthesis within the row are your instructions for all sizes.
Row 1: 10 Fsc, turn. (10 Sc) Alternatively, you can Ch 11 and work 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and across for 10 Sc.
Rows 2-72(78, 82, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104, 106): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across until you reach the last St, 1 Sc in last, turn. (10 Sc)
Do not turn after the last row, we will now be working Row 1 of the main body of the panel into the ends of the ribbing rows. It is normal for your ribbing to begin to “curve” and the main body of your panel to begin widening out as you start the following rows.
Row 1(RS): Work 1 Sc into the end of each row across the ribbing, turn.
(72(78, 82, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104, 106) Sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 Hdc in first St, *Sk the next St, 1 Hdc in following St, go back and work 1 Hdc around the post of the previous Hdc*, repeat from * to * across row until 1 St remains, 1 Hdc in last St, turn. (72(78, 82, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104, 106) Hdc)
Row 3: Ch 2, 1 Dc in first, 1 Sc (BLO) in next, *1 Dc (BLO), 1 Sc (BLO)* repeat from * to * across row until 1 St remains, 1 Sc in last, turn. (72(78, 82, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104, 106) Sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, *1 Dc, 1 Sc* repeat from * to * across row, turn.
Repeat Rows 1-72(78, 82, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104, 106) of the Back Panel Ribbing and Rows 1-49(49, 51, 51, 53, 53, 55, 55, 57) of the main body of the Back Panel.
Neckline Shaping-
Row 50(50, 52, 52, 54, 54, 56, 56, 58): Ch 2, *1 Dc, 1 Sc*, repeat from * to * for a total of 28(30, 32, 36, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44) Sts, leave remaining Sts unworked, turn. (28(30, 32, 36, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44) Sts)
Row 51(51, 53, 53, 55, 55, 57, 57, 59): Ch 1, Sk first St, 1 Sc in following St, *1 Dc, 1 Sc* across, turn. (27(29, 31, 35, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43) Sts)
Row 52(52, 54, 54, 56, 56, 58, 58, 60): Ch 2, *1 Dc, 1 Sc* repeat from * to * across until 1 St remains, 1 Dc in last St, turn.
Row 53(53, 55, 55, 57, 57, 59, 59, 61): Ch 1, Sk first St, *1 Dc, 1 Sc* repeat from * to * across, turn. (26(28, 30, 34, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42) Sts)
Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing last row to the back panel.
Opposite Shoulder-
With your panel RS down, count 28(30, 32, 36, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44) Sts in from the left, towards the center of the shirt, join yarn with a Sl St into the 28th(30th, 32nd, 36th, 36th, 38th, 40th, 42nd, 44th) St.
Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing last row to the back panel.
Sleeves (make 2)-
Row 1: 10 Fsc, turn. (10 Sc) Alternatively, you can Ch 11 and work 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and across for 10 Sc.
Rows 2-25(27, 28, 29, 29, 30, 30, 30, 31): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across until you reach the last St, 1 Sc in last, turn. (10 Sc)
Do not turn after the last row, we will now be working Row 1 of the main body of the panel into the ends of the ribbing rows.
Row 1(RS): Work 2 Sc into the end of each row across the ribbing, turn. (50(54, 56, 58, 58, 60, 60, 60, 62) Sc)
Note- your sleeve will look wavy at this point and is normal. It will straighten out as you continue each row.
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 Hdc in first St, *Sk the next St, 1 Hdc in following St, go back and work 1 Hdc around the post of the previous Hdc*, repeat from * to * across row until 1 St remains, 1 Hdc in last St, turn. (50(54, 56, 58, 58, 60, 60, 60, 62) Hdc)
Row 3: Ch 2, 1 Dc in first, 1 Sc (BLO) in next, *1 Dc (BLO), 1 Sc (BLO)* repeat from * to * across row until 1 St remains, 1 Sc in last, turn. (50(54, 56, 58, 58, 60, 60, 60, 62) Sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, *1 Dc, 1 Sc* repeat from * to * across row, turn.
Row 5: Repeat Row 4.
Rows 6-9: Repeat Rows 2-5.
Rows 10-13: Repeat Rows 2-5.
Rows 14-17: Repeat Rows 2-5.
Rows 18&19: Repeat Row 4.
Rows 20-23: Repeat Rows 2-5.
Rows 24 & 25: Repeat Row 4.
Rows 26-29: Repeat Rows 2-5
Rows 30 & 31: Repeat Row 4.
Sizes 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X ONLY- Repeat Row 4, four more times (total of 35 Rows) and fasten off. XS, S, M, L, XL, continue below. Rows 32-35: Repeat Rows 2-5. Sizes L, XL, repeat Row 4, four more times (total of 39 Rows) and fasten off.
Sizes XS, S, M repeat Row 4, six more times (total of 41 Rows) and fasten off. Leave a long tail for seaming last row of sleeve to your sweater.
Note- This is an oversized drop shoulder style cardigan. The wider the front/back panels are, the shorter the sleeve needs to be because they join further down your bicep. That’s why the smaller sizes have more rows than the larger. You an easily adjust your sleeve length by adding or taking away as many rows as needed.
Join Panels-
Block your panels to the measurements listed above. I recommend a steam block.
Place your front and back panels together RS facing.
Using your preferred seaming method attach the front panels to the back panel at the shoulders. I used my sewing needle and tails to mattress seam across. Be sure your panels are aligned and that you aren’t bunching or skipping stitches.
Next, using the same joining process as above, we will be attaching the sleeves to the pullover. Make sure the center of the sleeve is aligned with the shoulder seam. Be sure to check that your sleeves are even on both the front and back panel as you go. It is helpful to use SM’s here to
keep your sleeve in place as you join.
Finally, fold your pullover so that the back and front panels are on top of each other, RS facing. Seam from the cuffs to the underarm and down the side of the pullover.
Add Neckline Trim-
With your pullover WS out, join yarn with a Sl St to the St directly next to the shoulder seam. Exact stitch count is not crucial to the integrity of the pattern here, just be sure to end on an even number. Try and keep your Sts evenly placed as you work across the first side of the decrease rows, 1 St in each St along the bottom of the neckline on the front panel, evenly across the second side of decrease rows and 1 St in each St along the back panel.
Round 1: Ch 1, Sc evenly around the opening of the neckline, Sl St to the first Sc to join, turn.
Round 2: Ch 1, *Fpsc, Bpsc* repeat from * to * around, Sl St to first Sc to join.
