Timberlost Tote Crochet Pattern
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Timberlost Tote Crochet Pattern

One of my favorite yarns to design crochet bags with is Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton. I always love how they turn out. This years bag is the Timberlost Tote! I really loved working this one up and just going with the flow of color changes while designing it. Was so much fun!

There was a lot of travel involved with this bag. I started working on this design while I was visiting Chicago with my friends during H&H. Then, I also brought it with me when I travelled to Virginia with my family. I was able to get some photos of it while we were there! I loved carrying it around with me and think it’ll be so versatile. I actually used it to hold my WIP while we were out and about.

If you need yarn for your bag then be sure to check out my Lion Brand kit! The 24/7 Cotton works perfectly for it. You can also switch out your colors. Luckily this line of yarn has soooo many pretty color options to choose from.

The Timberlost Tote crochet pattern is worked in 2 identical panels from the bottom up. You have a bit of seaming to do at the sides and bottom. After, you’ll add the upper trim and join in your straps and drawstrings. You’ll work a variety of stripes in different stitches, which I find so fun to do! If you are in need of any visual help then be sure to check out my full video tutorial! I show every step! When you are switching out your yarn colors at the end of the row, don’t cut them right away! A lot of the time you can just float your color right up the side of the panel and switch back to it in a later row. That way we have less ends to weave in. There will be a handful of times that you do have to cut and join in on the other side.

If you love this bag and want to check out more free bag patterns, click here!

Links:

Description:

The Timberlost Tote is a beautiful and practical crochet bag featuring a drawstring closure, sturdy handles, and eye-catching stripes. A variety of stitches create gorgeous texture throughout the design, while multiple colors add depth and visual interest. Perfect for carrying projects, everyday essentials, or supplies for your next adventure, this tote is both functional and fun to crochet. The pattern includes detailed instructions and a full video tutorial to guide you every step of the way.

Materials:

  • Worsted (4) Weight Yarn, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Ecru (3 skeins or 500 yards)

  • Worsted (4) Weight Yarn, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Spruce (1 skein or 95 yards)

  • Worsted (4) Weight Yarn, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Beachnut (1 skein or 110 yards)

  • Worsted (4) Weight Yarn, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Camel (1 Skein or 125 yards)

  • G/4.00mm Crochet Hook

  • Needle

  • Measuring Tape

  • Scissors

Finished Bag Measurements:

13.5” W,  11” T, 3.5” D

Panel Measurements:

Gauge:

18 Sc by rows 1-19 of pattern= 4×4”

Notes:

  • This bag is made in 2 separate panels from the bottom up.

  • You will drop your yarn at the ends of the rows when switching colors. When you change back to it you will float your yarn up along the side of the panel, whenever possible. There will be color changes where you have to cut and join.

  • Starting Ch 1’s do not count as a St.

  • Starting Ch 2’s do not count as a St.

  • The Ch 3 in Row 14 counts as 1 St.

  • The Ch 4 in Row 15 counts as 1 St and 1 Ch Sp.

  • When pattern instructs In Row 28 to work “in St from 2 rows below”, you will work your Dc around the Ch 3 from the previous row, with your St worked into the top of the Dc from the row before it.

  • When pattern instructs in Row 37 to work “in St from 2 rows below”, you will work your Hdc around the Ch from the previous row, with your St worked into the Ch Sp from the row before it.

Link:

Stitches and Abbreviations (US Terms):

Ch(s)- Chain(s)

Sc- Single Crochet

RS- Right Side

St(s)- Stitch(es)

Dc- Double Crochet

Sk- Skip

Sp- Space

Hdc- Half Double Crochet

Sl St- Slip Stitch

Fpdc- Front Post Double Crochet

Bpdc- Back Post Double Crochet

BLO- Back Loop Only

Special Stitch-

YO, insert hook in the first Dc of the set of 3, YO and pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops on hook, YO, insert hook in next Dc, YO and pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops on hook, YO, insert hook in SAME Dc, YO, pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops on hook, YO, insert hook in last Dc, YO, pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops on hook, YO and pull through all 5 loops on hook.

4-Dc Cluster- YO, insert your hook into indicated St, YO and pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops on hook, *YO, insert hook into same St, YO and pull up a loop, YO pull through 2 loops on hook*, repeat from * to * 2 more times, YO, pull through all 5 loops on hook.

2-Dc Cluster- YO, insert your hook into indicated St, YO and pull up. All, YO, pull through 2 loops on hook, YO, insert hook into same St, YO and pull up a loop, YO pull through 2 loops on hook, YO and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Color A- Ecru

Color B- Spruce

Color C- Beachnut

Color D- Camel

Pattern (main panel, make 2):

With Color A

Ch 62

Row 1: 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and each Ch across, turn. (61 Sc)

Row 2(RS): Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St across, turn. (61 Sc)

Switch to Color B

Row 3: Ch 1, *1 Sc, 1 Dc*, repeat from * to * across the row until 1 St remains, 1 Sc in last, turn. (61 Sts)

Row 4: Repeat Row 2. (61 Sc)

Switch to Color A

Row 5: Repeat Row 2.

Switch to Color C

Row 6: Repeat Row 2.

Row 7: Repeat Row 3.

Row 8: Repeat Row 2.

Fasten off. TURN your work and set aside. We will now be extending the following row by 8 Sc on both sides using Fsc Sts, to shape the bottom of the bag.

Start with a new strand of Color A

Row 9: 8 Fsc, join back into the main body of the bag by working a Sc into the last St made in Row 8, continue with 1 Sc in each St across, now we need to extend this side as well to match the first side, work 8 Fsc, turn. (77 Sc) Note- when you work the final 8 Fsc, you will Ch 2, work

the first Fsc St in the first Ch and continue as normal for a total of 8 Fsc.

Be sure to view the video tutorial for extra help here.

Rows 10-13: Repeat Row 2.

Switch to Color D

Row 14: Ch 3(counts as 1 Dc), 3 Dc in first St, *Sk 3 Sts, 1 Sc in next Sc St, Ch 3, 3 Dc in the same St as the Sc*, repeat from * to * across row until 4 Sts remain, Sk 3, 1 Sc in final St, turn. (77 Sts)

Row 15: Ch 4(counts as 1 Dc and 1 Ch-1), *Special St in next 3 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Sc in Ch-3 Sp, Ch 1*, repeat from * to * across row until 4 Sts remain, Special St in last 3 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Sc in top of last St (the starting Ch 3), turn. (77 Sts)

Switch to Color A

Row 16: Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St and Ch Sp across, turn. (77 Sc) Don’t forget, the starting Ch 4 from the previous row counts, so your second to last St will be in the Ch 4 Sp and your last Sc will be in the 3rd Ch of the starting Ch 4.

Rows 17-19: Repeat Row 2.

Switch to Color C

Row 20: Ch 1, 1 Hdc in each St across, turn. (77 Hdc)

Switch to Color B

Row 21: Ch 1, *1 Hdc, 1 Sl St*, repeat from * to * across the row. Until 1 St remains, 1 Hdc in last St, turn. (77 Sts)

Switch to Color D

Row 22: Repeat Row 20.

Switch to Color A

Rows 23-25: Repeat Row 2.

Switch To Color B

Row 26: Ch 2, 1 Dc in each St across, turn. (77 Dc)

Row 27: Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, *Ch 3, Sk 3, 1 Sc*, repeat from * to * across the row, turn. (77 Sts)

Switch to Color A as your working yarn. We will be carrying along Color B with us only for the following row. To carry the yarn, work your Dc Sts over the yarn strand and the Ch 3 to hide them under the Sts.

Row 28:  With Color A, Ch 2, 1 Dc in first St, *1 Dc in the next 3 Sts, from 2 rows below (the 3 skipped Dc Sts), Switch to Color B, work 1 Fpdc around the post of the Dc from 2 rows below, Switch back to Color A*, repeat from * to * across the row until 4 Sts remain, 1 Dc in next 3 Sts from 2 rows below, 1 Dc in final St of previous row, turn. (77 Dc)

Switch to Color B

Row 29: Ch 2, 1 Dc in first St, *1 Dc in next 3 Sts, 1 Bpdc around following St*, repeat from * to * across the row until 4 Sts remain, 1 Dc in final 4 Sts, turn. (77 Dc)

Switch To Color A

Rows 30-34: Repeat Row 2.

Switch To Color C

Row 35: Ch 2, 1 Dc in first St, Ch 1, Sk 1, 4-Dc Cluster, *Ch 1, Sk 1, 2- Dc Cluster, Ch 1, Sk 1, 4-Dc Cluster* repeat from * to * across the row until 2 Sts remain, Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Dc in final St, turn. (77 Sts)

Row 36: Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, *Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Sc*, repeat from * to * across the row, turn. (77 Sts)

Switch To Color D

Row 37: Ch 1, 1 Hdc in first St, *1 Hdc in Ch-1 Sp from 2 rows below, 1 Hdc in top of next St from previous row*, repeat from * to * across the row, turn. (77 Hdc)

Row 38: Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St across, turn. (77 Sc)

Switch To Color A

Rows 39 & 40: Repeat Row 2.

Switch To Color C

Row 41: Repeat Row 21.

Row 42: Repeat Row 2.

Switch To Color A

Rows 43 & 44: Repeat Row 2.

Switch To Color D

Row 45: Repeat Row 21.

Row 46: Repeat Row 2.

Switch To Color A

Rows 47 & 48: Repeat Row 2.

Switch To Color B

Row 49: Repeat Row 21.

Row 50: Repeat Row 2.

Switch to Color A

Rows 51 & 52: Repeat Row 2.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming side of bag.

Trim:

With bag RS still facing, join yarn Color A with a Sl St to the left of either side seam.

Round 1: Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St around, Sl St to the first Sc made to join, TURN. (154 Sc)

Round 2: Ch 2, 1 Dc in each St around, Sl St to the first Dc made to join, turn. (154 Dc)

Rounds 3 & 4: Repeat Round 1.

Fasten off.

Drawstring Cords (make 2):

With Color C

Ch 2, 1 Sc in first Ch made, rotate your work slightly and insert your hook into the loop on the side of the St you just made, work 1 Sc into it. *Rotate your work slightly, on the side of the stitch you’ll see 2 loops next to each other, insert your hook underneath them and work 1 Sc.* repeat from * to * until your cord reaches approximately 26” long. (See video for help) Fasten off.

Alternatively, you can work up a long Ch until its approximately 30” long, then Sl St into the second Ch from the hook and in each Ch across.

Straps (make 2):

With Color A

Ch 9 (leave a 12” long tail for sewing)

Row 1: 1 Sc (BLO) in the second Ch from the hook and across, turn. (8 Sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, insert your hook into the BLO of the first St plus the BLO of the St from the row below and work 1 Sc, continue working Sc Sts across the row, putting your hook in the BLO of the current row and the BLO of the row below, turn. (8 Sc)

Repeat Row 2 until you strap reaches approximately 24”. You can make adjustments here if you prefer your straps longer or shorter.

Final Row: Ch 1, insert your hook under the back loop of the first St, plus the BLO of the row below, work a Sl St. Continue working Sl Sts across the row, putting your hook under the back loop of the current St and the BLO of the St in the row below.

Fasten off, leave a 12” tail for sewing the strap to your bag.

Assembly:

Place both panels of your bag together, RS facing. Using your needle

and yarn tail, sew the bottom of Row 1 of both panels together. Next, sew the sides of your bag together (Rows 9-52). View diagram below. Next, we are going to sew the bottom corners together. Open up each corner of the bag and line up the side seam with the bottom seam. Sandwich together and sew across to close.

Joining Panels

Joining Panels

Next, with your bag RS out, weave your first drawstring from right to left on one of the panels. You’ll insert the cord just to the left of the side seam in Round 2 and weave in and out about every 5 Dc Sts until you reach the opposite side seam. Feel free to adjust the placement of the cord. Repeat the same process on the second side with the second cord. Tie the end of the cords together in a knot. You can add a tassel, a pompom or leave it bare. Repeat on opposite side.

Finally, we will add the straps. Turn your bag WS out. Line up your strap about 4” away from the edge of the bag on both sides. Overlap your strap edges and bag about 2” from the top of the bag. Make sure both sides of the strap are lined up evenly before you begin sewing. Feel free to make adjustments on where you want your strap placement. Be sure to not twist straps. Use stitch markers here to hold in place if needed. Sew the bottom of the strap and work in a rectangular shape as you sew, stopping just before the row with your drawstring and working your seam below it. We don’t want to sew over the drawstring rows because it will prevent the cord from moving. Repeat on other side of bag, making sure your second strap is even with the first.

Fasten off and weave in any ends.

Timberlost Tote Crochet Pattern

Timberlost Tote Crochet Pattern

CODE: LOST

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