The Daisy Daydream Cardigan has got to be the coziest sweater I have ever made! All it took was one time holding this yarn and I knew I had to make a sweater with it. Find the full Daisy Daydream Cardigan crochet pattern below!
If you have been following my blog for awhile then you know I have The Daisy Day Throw, The Daisy Day Tote and The Daisy Day Cardigan. They are some of my favorite pieces! I wasn’t quite sure what to name this one at first. I knew I already had a Daisy Day Cardigan, not realizing I would be making another cardigan in the future, so I had to come up with something different! The Yarn I used is “feels like a dream” so it only made since to try and sneak the word dream in somewhere. Daisy Daydream was just too perfect for it!
Now, as you can see by the yarn it is fluffy! If you are a beginner, I would not attempt this design with this yarn. You must be comfortable “feeling” your stitches and working at a slow and steady pace for the back panel due to the color-work. However, it IS possible to do! It takes a bit of practice working with it along with a whole lot of stitch markers. I highly recommend placing your stitch markers and moving them up with you every row as you go. At least on the back panel. The back panel is where you don’t want to make mistakes. The other panels it doesn’t matter so much if you realize you missed a stitch somewhere. Simply sneak another one in the next row! Or if you realize you have too many, just leave one out in the following row. It is a very easy yarn to conceal mistakes. Just not on the daisy portion! Be sure to check out my video on help placing stitch markers.
The stitches used are all single crochet. I wanted it to be as simple as possible so that the only thing you had to focus on was working with this particular yarn and getting the color-work correct. There is very minimal shaping due to that as well! I did include pockets but you can easily skip them if you want. Simply work your stitches across the row like normal. For the pocket panels I used Color B, just for the fact that I wanted to use up as much of the yarn as possible and not have it go to waste. Which leads me to the “Bonus Beanie” pattern. You’ll find it at the bottom of this blog post so you can use up allll that extra Color C yarn.
So remember, take it slow on the back panel, use stitch markers and “feel” your stitches. Once you get used to it your hook just knows where to go.
Description: Meet the Daisy Daydream Cardigan, the newest bloom in the Daisy Day Collection. With its fuzzy stitches, playful daisy color-work, and a step-by-step video tutorial, this cardigan is the perfect mix of cozy and magical, like wearing a daydream. Bonus! You’ll have enough of your center color to make a matching beanie. Directions are included in the pattern.
This pattern is worked from the bottom up in separate panels.
This is a fuzzy yarn which can make it difficult to see your stitches. I highly recommend utilizing your stitch markers, especially on your back panel with the color-work. I placed my SM every 10th St starting in Row 1 of the back panel. You can place them wherever you are most comfortable with whether that is in every 10th St, every 15th St or even every 5th St. You will move these SM up with you every single row. This may feel cumbersome at first but gets easier as you get into the flow of this yarn. For a visual on placing and using your SM please check out my video tutorial.
There is both written instructions and a graph for the color-work portion of the panels. Follow the written instructions and use the graph as a guide. The highlighted numbers in the written instructions reflect the squares within the graph. The numbers on either side of the highlighted graph numbers are different for each size and not reflected in the graph.You might notice Color A is sometimes written back-to-back (like 12A, 7A). That’s on purpose! I’ve kept it this way so the highlighted stitches line up perfectly with the chart, making it easier to follow along.
You will not carry Color B and C all the way across the row. Keep them within there flower section. You will drop the color and pick it back up within the next row.
I used Color B to create my pocket panels. You can also use Color C or Color A if you have enough leftover.
For a longer or shorter cardigan, simply add or remove rows to the back panel, just before fastening off. Add or remove the same amount to the front panels. For longer or shorter sleeves, add or remove rows just before the final 2 decrease rows.
Alternatively you can Ch 1 more than the number listed above, work 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and across for the same St count of
75(81, 87, 95, 101, 109, 115, 123, 129) Sc.
Rows 2-12: Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St across, turn. (75(81, 87, 95, 101, 109, 115, 123, 129) Sc)
We will now be starting the color work section with the graph. Each size will have a different amount of Sc Sts on either side of the graph. This number does not change and will be the same amount throughout the back panel. Use the chart as a reference guide as you go. Carry color A with you as you go. Create floats on the WS of your work every few stitches. Do not carry colors B and C down the row. Drop them and leave them with your current flower and pick them back up on the next row. The stitches that match with the graph are highlighted in the written instructions. The numbers that start and end the row are not reflected on the graph and are not highlighted. All stitches below are worked in Sc. Your back panel St count will stay the same throughout.
Row 80-91(91, 95, 97, 99, 99, 101, 103, 103): Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St across, turn. (75(81, 87, 95, 101, 109, 115, 123, 129) Sc)
Fasten off.
Right Front Panel-
With Color A
Row 1(RS): 29(32, 35, 39, 42, 46, 49, 53, 56) Fsc, turn. Alternatively you can Ch 1 more than the number listed above, work 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and across for the same St count of (29(32, 35, 39, 42, 46, 49, 53, 56) Sc)
Rows 2-30: Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St across, turn. (29(32, 35, 39, 42, 46, 49, 53, 56) Sc)
We will now be creating the pocket hole opening. If you prefer to not have pockets, simply work the next row with a Sc in each St across.
Row 32: Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St across, when you reach the Ch Sp, work a Sc into each one, treating it like a normal St (working into the Ch Sp is also fine), turn. (29(32, 35, 39, 42, 46, 49, 53, 56) Sc)
Rows 33-91(91, 95, 97, 99, 99, 101, 103, 103): Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St across, turn. (29(32, 35, 39, 42, 46, 49, 53, 56) Sc)
Fasten off, leave a tail long enough to sew the last row made to your back panel.
Left Front Panel-
With Color A
Row 1(RS): 29(32, 35, 39, 42, 46, 49, 53, 56) Fsc, turn. Alternatively you can Ch 1 more than the number listed above, work 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and across for the same St count of (29(32, 35, 39, 42, 46, 49, 53, 56) Sc)
Rows 2-30: Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St across, turn. (29(32, 35, 39, 42, 46, 49, 53, 56) Sc)
We will now be creating the pocket hole opening. If you prefer to not have pockets, simply work the next row with a Sc in each St across.
Row 32: Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St across, when you reach the Ch Sp, work a Sc into each one, treating it like a normal St (working into the Ch Sp is also fine), turn. (29(32, 35, 39, 42, 46, 49, 53, 56) Sc)
Rows 33-91(91, 95, 97, 99, 99, 101, 103, 103): Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St across, turn. (29(32, 35, 39, 42, 46, 49, 53, 56) Sc)
Fasten off, leave a tail long enough to sew the last row made to your back panel.
Sleeves (make 2)-
Leave a long starting tail for seaming the first row to your back/front panels later on.
With Color A
Row 1: 50(54, 56, 60, 62, 66, 68,72, 72) Fsc, turn. Alternatively you can Ch 1 more than the number listed above, work 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and across for the same St count of (50(54, 56, 60, 62, 66, 68,72, 72) Sc.
Rows 2-70(70, 70, 68, 68, 66, 64, 62, 62): Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St across, turn.(50(54, 56, 60, 62, 66, 68,72, 72) Sc)
Row 71(71, 71, 69, 69, 67, 65, 63, 63): Ch 1, *Sc2tog*, repeat from * to * across the row, turn. (25(27, 28, 30, 31, 33, 34, 36, 36) Sc)
Row 72(72, 72, 70, 70, 68, 66, 64, 64): Ch 1, *Sc2tog* repeat from * to * across the row, 1(1, -, -, 1, 1, -, -, -) Sc in last St, turn. (13(14, 14, 15, 16, 17, 17, 18, 18) Sc)
Fasten off, leave a long tail to seam the side of your sleeve together.
Note- This is an oversized drop-shoulder style cardigan. The wider the front/back panels are, the shorter the sleeve needs to be because they join further down your bicep. That’s why the smaller sizes have more rows than the larger. You an easily adjust your sleeve length by adding or taking away rows, just before the final 2 decrease rows.
Pocket Panels (make 2)-
With Color B
Row 1 (RS): 26(28, 28, 28, 28, 30, 30, 30, 30) Fsc, turn. Alternatively you can Ch 1 more than the number listed above, work 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and across for the same St count of 26(28, 28, 28, 28, 30, 30, 30, 30) Sc)
Rows 2-31: Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St across, turn. (26(28, 28, 28, 28, 30, 30, 30, 30) Sc)
Fasten off, leave a tail long enough to seam 2 sides of the square.
Assembly-
Block your panels to the measurements listed above. I did a light steam block, being very careful to avoid direct contact with the fibers.
Place your front and back panels together RS facing.
Using your preferred seaming method attach the front panels to the back panel at the shoulders (I used my needle and did the mattress stitch across). Be sure your panels are aligned and that you aren’t bunching or skipping stitches.
Next, using the same joining process as above, we will be attaching the sleeves to the cardigan. Make sure the center of the sleeve is aligned with the shoulder seam. Be sure to check that your sleeves are even on both the front and back panel as you go. It is helpful to use SM’s here to keep your sleeve in place as you join.
Finally, fold your cardigan so that the back and front panels are on top of each other, RS facing. Seam from the end of sleeve to the underarm and down the side of the cardigan. Repeat on the other side.
Sew pockets-
With your cardigan still WS out, place your pockets onto the front panels. You can use your SMs here and pin the pocket into place, lining up the top row of the pocket to Row 32 and the bottom of the pocket to Row 1 of the front panel. Seam across the top of the pocket and down the side of your pocket. Seam the third side of the pocket panel as well, being sure to keep it straight as you go. Leave the bottom of the pocket un-sewn. We will crochet this together in the “Trim” section. Make sure you don’t stick your needle all the way through to the front so that the seam is not visible on the outside. Don’t tug your stitches too tight. Be sure to view the video tutorial if you need a visual on how to sew the pocket. Repeat on other side with the second pocket.
Trim and Finish Up:
With Color A
With your cardigan RS out, join yarn with a Sl St to the bottom corner of the left side panel (right when worn).
Row 1: Ch 1, Sc evenly up the side of the front panel, across the back neckline, and down the side of the second front panel, turn. Exact St count is not crucial here, just try to keep your Sts even. I worked approximately 1 Sc into then end of each Sc row.
Rows 2-3: Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St across, turn.
Do not fasten off after your 3 edging rows are made. You will now be working 1 row of Sc along the bottom of your cardigan. Ch 1, 1 Sc into the end of each of the 3 edging rows, 1 Sc into each St along the bottom of the front panel, back panel and second front panel. Work your hook through both the front panel and pocket panels to close, as you work across.
Fasten off.
Finally, place your cardigan RS out. Join yarn B with a Sl St to the bottom right corner of the pocket hole opening. Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St along the bottom of the pocket. Sl St to join into the left corner, fasten off. Repeat on other side.
Weave in any remaining ends.
Daisy Daydream Bonus Beanie-
Want to use up your extra Color C? Check out my bonus beanie pattern below.
With Color C
Row 1: 50 Fsc, turn. (50 Sc)
Alternatively you can Ch 1 more than the number listed above, work 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and across for the same St count of 50 Sc. For a slouchier beanie, add more Fsc here.
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 Sc in the fist St, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across until 1 remains, 1 Sc in final St, turn. (50 Sc)
Rows 3-57: Repeat Row 2.
Add or remove rows here to adjust the size of your beanie.
Do not fasten off, fold your panel in half, Sl St the first and last row together to join, creating a tube. Fasten off, leave a tail to sew the top of your beanie shut.
Using a needle, weave the tail of yarn in and out every few rows at the top of the beanie. Pull tight to cinch shut. Weave back and forth to knot the top. Weave in ends. Turn beanie right side out and fold brim.
