The Pemberley Pullover Pattern

I don’t know about you guys but I love a good cozy pullover! The Pemberley Pullover is a super fun make and goes with just about anything! I used one of my favorite worsted weight yarns for this one- Lion Brand Heartland! There are lots of colors to choose from and the yarn is super soft and easy to work with.

The Pemberley Pullover features a v-neck and ribbing at the cuffs and hem. I wrote the pattern to have plenty of positive ease so it fits with a boxy, slightly oversized look! You can easily add or take away length in this sweater by adding or removing rows. Be sure to check the notes section on this topic!

This is a pretty simple pullover pattern that I think even a beginner could do it. You will be working your front and back panel from the bottom up. The sleeves are worked bottom down. I made an full video tutorial on this pullover so if you ever get stuck please check it out! I walk you through step by step on how to make the sweater so please refer to the tutorial if you want a visual!

If you like this sweater be sure to check out some of my other ones here!

The Pemberley Pullover Description: This beginner friendly v-neck pullover is the perfect staple to your winter wardrobe. The boxy and slightly oversized fit makes it super comfy to wear!

LINKS:

Materials:

  • Worsted Weight (4) Yarn, Lion Brand Heartland in “Great Smoky Mountains” 5(5,6,6,7,7,7,8,8) Skeins, 1150(1200, 1290, 1380, 1480, 1550, 1630, 1720, 1810) yards.

  • 5.00mm Crochet Hook

  • Yarn Needle

  • Measuring Tape

  • Stitch Markers (4)

Sizes: XS(S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

Gauge:

4X4”= 13 Hdc by 10 Rows

Finished Sweater Measurements:

XS- 21” W (to fit bust 28-30”), 22.5” L, 18” Sleeve

S- 22.75” W (to fit bust 32-34”), 22.5” L, 18” Sleeve

M- 24.5” W (to fit bust 36-38”), 23.25” L, 18” Sleeve

L- 26.5” W (to fit bust 40-42”), 24” L, 18” Sleeve

XL- 28.25” W (to fit bust 44-46”), 25” L, 18” Sleeve

2X- 30” W (to fit bust 48-50”), 25.75” L, 18.75” Sleeve

3X- 32” W (to fit bust 52-54”), 26.5” L, 18.75” Sleeve

4X- 33.75” W (to fit bust 56-58”), 27.25” L, 18.75” Sleeve

5X- 35.5” W (to fit bust 60-62”), 28” L, 18.75” Sleeve

Pattern Notes:

  • The Pemberley Pullover is worked from the bottom up.

  • The Ch 1 does not count as a stitch.

  • You can make your sweater longer by adding more rows before the “neckline splitting” section. Be sure to add the same amount of rows to the back panel as well. Take into account that you will need extra yarn.

  • If you get confused at any point, be sure to follow the video tutorial linked on the next page.

Abbreviations (US Terms):

Ch- Chain

Sc- Single Crochet

BLO- Back Loop Only

Hdc- Half Double Crochet

Sl St- Slip Stitch

RS- Right Side

Sm- Stitch Marker

Hdc2tog- Half Double Crochet 2 Together

St(s)- Stitch(es)

Links:

Full video tutorial

Pattern:

Back Panel-

Ch 11

Row 1: 1 Sc in second Ch from hook and each Ch across, turn. (10 Sc)

Rows 2-68(74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110, 116): Ch 1, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across, turn. (10 Sc)

Rotate your work, you will now be working Row 1 of the main body of the Back Panel into the ends of the rows of the ribbing.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, 1 Hdc into the end of each row across, turn. (68(74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110, 116) Hdc)

Rows 2-50(50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64) : Ch 1, 1 Hdc into each St across, turn.

Tie off.

Front Panel:

Repeat Rows 1-68(74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110, 116) of ribbing and rows 1-36(36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50) of the main body of the Back Panel.

Splitting Neckline:

Right Shoulder-

Row 37(37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51): Ch 1, 1 Hdc in first 34(37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52, 55, 58) Hdc (half way across), leave remaining stitches unworked, turn. 34(37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52, 55, 58) Hdc)

Row 38(38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52): Ch 1, Hdc2tog, 1 Hdc in each remaining St across, turn. 33(36, 39, 42, 45, 48, 51, 54, 57) Hdc)

Row 39(39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53): Ch 1, 1 Hdc in each St across until 2 Sts remain, Hdc2tog, turn. 32(35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56 Hdc)

Rows 40(40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54)- 50(50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64): Repeat Rows 38(38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52) & 39(39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53). You will be decreasing by 1 St with each row. You will be ending with 21(24, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45 Hdc) Sts.

Tie off, leave a long tail for shoulder seaming.

Left Shoulder:

With RS facing, join yarn with a sl st in the next unworked st of Row 36(36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50. You should be joining at the very next St by the last St made at Row 37(37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51) from the Right shoulder.

Row 37(37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51): Ch 1, 1 Hdc in same St and each remaining St across, turn. (34(37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52, 55, 58) Hdc)

Row 38(38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52): Ch 1, 1 Hdc in each St across until 2 Sts remain, Hdc2tog, turn. (33(36, 39, 42, 45, 48, 51, 54, 57) Hdc)

Row 39(39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53): Ch 1, Hdc2tog, 1 Hdc in each remaining St across, turn. (32(35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56 Hdc)

Rows 40(40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54)- 50(50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64): Repeat Rows 38(38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52) & 39(39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53). You will be decreasing by 1 St with each row. You will be ending with 21(24, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45 Hdc) Sts.

Tie off, leave a long tail for shoulder seaming.

Seam Your Shoulders:

Lay your back panel down, RS up. Lay your front panel on top of it, RS down. Use your tail of yarn from the first shoulder of the front panel and sew or Sl St across the 21(24, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45) Sts of Row 50(50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64) on both panels together. Repeat with the second shoulder.

Sleeves:

Lay your sweater out in front of you, RS up. You will be measuring out your sleeves. Using your measuring tape, measure from the shoulder seam (where the front and back panel meet) down the front panel a total of 7.5(8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5)” and place a SM. Repeat the process by measuring from the shoulder seam down the back panel for another 7.5(8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5)”. Place a SM. You should have a 15(16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23)” space in between the 2 SM’s. Repeat the same process for the second sleeve. Be sure your SM are placed on the same row for each side.

Row 1: With your work still facing RS up, join yarn with a Sl St to the stitch with the first SM. Ch 1, Work 49(52, 55, 58, 61, 64, 67, 71, 75) Hdc across until you reach the second SM, turn. (49(52, 55, 58, 61, 64, 67, 71, 75) Hdc)

Note: Since you are working into the sides of the rows of the front and back panel for Row 1 there is not a specific “stitch” that you will be working into. Just try to evenly spread your stitches across the length. Make sure your shoulder seam is directly in the middle of your stitch count with half the stitches on either side.

Rows 2-12: Ch 1, 1 Hdc in each St across, turn. (49(52, 55, 58, 61, 64, 67, 71, 75) Hdc)

XS(S,M,L,XL) ONLY:

Row 13: Ch 1, Hdc2tog, 1 Hdc in each St across until you reach the last 2 Sts, Hdc2tog, turn. (47(50, 53, 56, 59) Hdc)

Rows 14 & 15: Ch 1, 1 Hdc in each St across, turn.

Rows 16-39: Repeat Rows 13-15, decreasing by 2 Sts on every row 13 repeat, turn. You will be ending with (31(34,37,40,43) Hdc)

Note- do not tie off after last row, continue straight to cuff section. If you want your sleeves longer or shorter, add or takeaway rows here before continuing. Your cuff will add 2.5” to the sleeve length.

2X(3X,4X,5X) ONLY:

Row 13: Ch 1, Hdc2tog, 1 Hdc in each St across until you reach the last 2 Sts, Hdc2tog, turn. (62(65, 69, 73) Hdc)

Row 14: Ch 1, 1 Hdc in each St across, turn.

Rows 15-39: Repeat Rows 13 & 14, decreasing by 2 Sts on every row 13 repeat, turn. You will be ending with (36(39,43,47) Hdc)

Rows 40 & 41: Ch 1, 1 Hdc in each St across, turn.

Note- do not tie off after last row, continue straight to cuff section.

If you want your sleeves longer or shorter, add or takeaway rows here before continuing. Your cuff will add 2.5” to the sleeve length.

Cuffs:

You will be creating the ribbing of the cuff by working in rows vertical to the last row of the sleeve, slip stitching to join and working across.

Ch 11

Row 1: 1 Sc in second Ch from hook and each Ch across, back down to the last row made of the sleeve, work 1 Sl St into the same St as your starting Ch, work 1 Sl St into the following St, turn. (10 Sc) You will now be working back up Row 1 of the cuff.

Row 2: 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across, turn. (10 Sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across, 1 Sl St into the next unworked St of the sleeve row, 1 more Sl St into the following St, turn.

Rows 4-31(34, 37, 40, 43, 36, 39, 43, 47): Repeat Rows 2 & 3.

If ending on a Row 2 repeat, tie off. If ending on a Row 3 Repeat, Sl St to last St of the sleeve and tie off. Leave a tail of yarn long enough to sew the sleeve and side of sweater together.

Repeat entire Sleeve and Cuff section on opposite side.

Seaming:

Lay your sweater out, right sides facing in. Using the tail of yarn at the cuff, Sl St or sew (if sewing, I recommend mattress stitch) from the cuff up to the underarm. Continue from the underarm down the side of the sweater to the bottom hem. Tie off and repeat on other side.

Neckline Trim:

With your sweater right side out, join yarn to one of the shoulder seams with a Sl St. Ch 1, work Sc stitches evenly around the neck opening. Stitch count is not crucial just be sure to space them out evenly. Join to the first Sc made with a Sl St. Tie off.

Weave in all ends.

The Pemberley Pullover

 

the pemberley pullover

 

I hope you guys LOVE The Pemberley Pullover! Be sure to tag me on social media to share your finished projects!

About The Author

Rachel Misner

4 COMMENTS

  1. Emily Grinfeld | 12th Feb 21

    Does your sweater looks like a V-Neck?

  2. Lynn | 12th Feb 21

    Would love to have this same style as a cardigan. Do you perhaps have a pattern like that?

  3. Emily Grinfeld | 12th Feb 21

    I like your sweater because it’s so cozy!

  4. Larryn Griffith | 13th Feb 21

    Thank you, thank you, thank you for sharing this! I’ve loved this sweater since I first set eyes on it and will be making it as soon as I can.

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