The Star-Crossed Cardigan Crochet Pattern

Let’s kick off the new year with a brand new crochet design, The Star-Crossed Cardigan Crochet Pattern! I wanted to start off strong with a cardigan design using Heartland yarn. You might remember my Stony Shore Cardigan and my Kiah Cardigan, both are very popular and well loved and both use Heartland yarn! I knew I needed something to add to the collection of my popular cardigans!

The Star-Crossed Cardigan crochet pattern is very beginner friendly and uses basic shapes. Once you nail the “double crosses spike” stitch you will work this cardigan up easy peasy! It’s basically a combination of all double crochet stitches with the ribbing using single crochet. You will work the panels from the bottom up and sew together.

Did you notice the Star-Crossed Cardigan crochet pattern has pockets?! The best part is that the pocket swatch is your gauge swatch. So feel free to jump ahead in the pattern and make a pocket swatch before starting. You will then use that swatch to measure 4×4″ within. Save it for later when you are required to seam to the inside of your cardigan!

I used Lion Brand Heartland yarn for The Star-Crossed Cardigan crochet pattern and they have so many pretty colors to choose from! It’s available as a kit which comes with all the yarn plus a FREE copy of the printable PDF download. Check it out here!

This cardigan is really easy to customize. You can adjust length by adding or removing rows on any of the panels. Make sure you add or remove the same amount to both the fronts and back panel if you are altering the length. Same for the sleeves! This is a drop shoulder style cardigan so the bigger the size you make the shorter the sleeve panels will be. Feel free to customize the length if needed!

I made a full video tutorial for The Star-Crossed Cardigan crochet pattern on my Youtube Channel! Be sure to check it out if you need a little extra help. Thanks so much for subscribing so I can continue bringing you more free content!

LINKS:

• Check out the kit from Lion Brand for The Star-Crossed Cardigan crochet pattern! It comes with all the yarn needed to make your cardigan plus a FREE copy of the PDF digital download! You can even customize your yarn colors!

• I have a full video tutorial available for  this design! Be sure to check out my video tutorial for a little extra help and subscribe for more free content!

• The Star-Crossed Cardigan low cost ad-free printable PDF is in my Etsy shop!

• Be sure to save to your Ravelry queue for later or purchase the low cost ad-free printable PDF!

Description:

Introducing “The Star-Crossed Cardigan” crochet pattern, tailored for beginners seeking a delightful crafting experience. This charming design features a playful spike stitch, creating whimsical dashes across the sweater, while ribbing on the bottom and cuffs adds a touch of elegance. Elevate your skills effortlessly with a step-by-step video tutorial included in the pattern. Complete with practical pockets, this sweater seamlessly combines style and functionality, offering a cozy and fashionable addition to your wardrobe. Unleash your creativity and crochet your way to a wardrobe staple that’s as chic as it is comfortable!

Materials:

• Worsted (4) Weight Yarn, Lion Brand Heartland in White Sands 6(6, 7, 7, 8) Skeins or 1260(1380, 1520, 1700, 1820) yards

• H/5.00mm Crochet Hook

• Needle

• Scissors

• Measuring Tape

• Stitch Markers (2)

Gauge:

13 Dc by 7 Rows= 4×4” (blocked)

Make your pocket panel and measure within the swatch to check gauge.

Sizes:

XS(S/M, L/XL, 2X/3X, 4X/5X)

Finished Measurements:

Notes:

• This cardigan is worked in separate panels from the bottom up, them seamed together.

• The Ch 2 does not count as a St.

• The Ch 1 does not count as a St.

• You can adjust the length of your cardigan by adding or removing row to the back and front panels before fastening off. Take into account your yardage requirements from above will change.

• You can adjust the length of your sleeves by adding or removing rows before fastening off.

• If you don’t want pockets on your cardigan, simply skip the Ch Sp and continue along the row with the regular St repeat.

• The numbers in parenthesis at the beginning of the row are the row counts for all sizes. The numbers in parenthesis at the end of the rows are your stitch counts for all sizes. The numbers in parentheses within your row are your instructions for all sizes.

• When the pattern says to work your Dc into the base of the St, you are working it at the bottom of the St/ top of St from the prior row.

Video Link:

Need a little extra help? Check out my video tutorial!

Stitches and Abbreviations (US Terms):

Ch(s)- Chain(s)

St(s)- Stitch(es)

Sc- Single Crochet

BLO- Back Loop Only

Dc- Double Crochet

Sk- Skip

RS- Right Side

WS- Wrong Side

Fdc- Foundation Double Crochet

SM- Stitch Marker

Double Crosses Spike- Sk next 2 Sts, 1 Dc into the base of the following St, 1 Dc into the top of the 2nd skipped St, 1 Dc into the base of the first skipped St

Pattern:

Back Panel-

Ch 11

Row 1(RS): 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and each across, turn. (10 Sc)

Rows 2-71(83, 95, 107, 119): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across until 1 remains, 1 Sc in last, turn. (10 Sc)

Do not turn after the last row, you will now rotate your ribbing and work Row 1 of the main body of the sweater into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Row 1: Ch 2, 1 Dc into the end of each row across the ribbing, turn. (71(83, 95, 107, 119) Dc)

Row 2: Ch 2, 1 Dc in each St across, turn. (71(83, 95, 107, 119) Dc)

Row 3: Ch 2, 1 Dc in first St, *Sk next 2 Sts, 1 Dc into the base of the following St, 1 Dc into top of the 2nd skipped St (the center St), 1 Dc into the base of the first skipped St**, 1 Dc in next 3 Sts*, repeat from * to * across row, ending last repeat at **, 1 Dc in last St, turn. (71(83, 95, 107, 119) Dc)

Row 4: Ch 2, 1 Dc in each St across, turn. (71(83, 95, 107, 119) Dc)

Row 5: Ch 2, 1 Dc in first 4 Sts, *Sk next 2 Sts, 1 Dc into the base of the following St, 1 Dc into top of the 2nd skipped St (the center St), 1 Dc

into the base of the first skipped St, 1 Dc in next 3 Sts*, 1 Dc in last St, turn. (71(83, 95, 107, 119) Dc)

Rows 6-38(40, 42, 44, 44): Repeat Rows 2-5. You will end on a Row 2(4, 2, 4, 4) repeat.

Fasten off.

Front Panel (make 2)-

Ch 11

Row 1(RS): 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and each across, turn. (10 Sc)

Rows 2-29(35, 41, 47, 53): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across until 1 remains, 1 Sc in last, turn. (10 Sc)

Do not turn after the last row, you will now rotate your ribbing and work Row 1 of the main body of the sweater into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Row 1: Ch 2, 1 Dc into the end of each row across the ribbing, turn. (29(35, 41, 47, 53)Dc)

Row 2: Ch 2, 1 Dc in each St across, turn. (29(35, 41, 47, 53)Dc)

Row 3: Ch 2, 1 Dc in first St, *Sk next 2 Sts, 1 Dc into the base of the following St, 1 Dc into top of the 2nd skipped St (the center St), 1 Dc into the base of the first skipped St**, 1 Dc in next 3 Sts*, repeat from * to * across row, ending last repeat at **, 1 Dc in last St, turn. (29(35, 41, 47, 53)Dc)

Row 4: Ch 2, 1 Dc in each St across, turn. (29(35, 41, 47, 53)Dc)

Row 5: Ch 2, 1 Dc in first 4 Sts, *Sk next 2 Sts, 1 Dc into the base of the following St, 1 Dc into top of the 2nd skipped St (the center St), 1 Dc into the base of the first skipped St, 1 Dc in next 3 Sts*, 1 Dc in last St, turn. (29(35, 41, 47, 53)Dc)

Rows 6-12: Repeat Rows 2-5, ending on a Row 4 repeat.

Row 13: Ch 2, work the regular St repeat of Row 5 for the first 4(7, 10, 13, 16) Sts, Ch 21, Sk next 21 Sts, continue with the regular St repeat for the remaining 4(7, 10, 13, 16) Sts, turn. (8(14, 20, 26, 32) Dc) Note- Sizes S/M and 2X/3X you will have to join back in with a double crosses spike St after creating your chain length opening. So after you Sk 21 Sts, be sure to Sk over 2 more before joining in with a Dc into the base of the following St, then go back and complete the remainder of the spike St in the previous 2 Sts like normal (top of the 2nd skipped and base of the first skipped) to complete.

Rows 14-38(40, 42, 44, 44): Repeat Rows 2-5. Treat the Chs in Row 13 just as you would a regular St, and work your Sts directly into them.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Sleeves (make 2)-

Ch 11

Row 1: 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and each across, turn. (10 Sc)

Rows 2-24(24, 27, 30, 33): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across until 1 remains, 1 Sc in last, turn. (10 Sc)

Do not turn after the last row, you will now rotate your ribbing and work Row 1 of the main body of the sleeve into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 2, 2 Dc into the end of each ribbing row across until 1 row remains, 1 Dc into the end of the last row, turn. (47(47, 53, 59, 65) Dc)

Your sleeve is going to look wavy and crazy at this point. Don’t worry, that’s normal!

Row 2: Ch 2, 1 Dc in each St across, turn. (47(47, 53, 59, 65) Dc)

Row 3: Ch 2, 1 Dc in first St, *Sk next 2 Sts, 1 Dc into the base of the following St, 1 Dc into top of the 2nd skipped St (the center St), 1 Dc into the base of the first skipped St**, 1 Dc in next 3 Sts*, repeat from * to * across row, ending last repeat at **, 1 Dc in last St, turn. (47(47, 53, 59, 65) Dc)

Row 4: Ch 2, 1 Dc in each St across, turn. (47(47, 53, 59, 65) Dc)

Row 5: Ch 2, 1 Dc in first 4 Sts, *Sk next 2 Sts, 1 Dc into the base of the following St, 1 Dc into top of the 2nd skipped St (the center St), 1 Dc into the base of the first skipped St, 1 Dc in next 3 Sts*, 1 Dc in last St, turn. (47(47, 53, 59, 65) Dc)

Rows 6-30(28, 28, 26, 26): Repeat Rows 2-5, ending on a Row 2(4, 4, 2, 2) repeat. Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming last row to the front and back panels.

Note- This is an oversized drop-sleeve style cardigan. The wider the front/back panels are, the shorter the sleeve needs to be because they join further down your bicep. That’s why the smaller sizes have more rows than the larger. You an easily adjust your sleeve length by adding or taking away as many rows as needed.

Pocket panels (make 2)-

Row 1: 23 Fdc, turn. (23 Dc) Alternatively, you can Ch 25, work 1 Dc into the 3rd Ch from the hook and across for 23 Dc.

Rows 2-13: Ch 2, 1 Dc in each St across, turn.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming all 4 sides to your cardigan.

Assembly-

Block your panels to the measurements listed above. I did a light steam block on mine.
Place your front and back panels together RS facing.
Using your preferred seaming method attach the front panels to the back panel at the shoulders (I used my hook and slip stitched across). Be sure your panels are aligned and that you aren’t bunching or skipping stitches.

Next, using the same joining process as above, we will be attaching the sleeves to the cardigan. Make sure the center of the sleeve is aligned with the shoulder seam. Be sure to check that your sleeves are even on both the front and back panel as you go. It is helpful to use SM’s here to

keep your sleeve in place as you join.
Finally, fold your cardigan so that the back and front panels are on top of each other, RS facing. Seam from the cuffs to the underarm and down the side of the cardigan.

Sew Pockets-

Now, you will be sewing your pockets to the inside of the front panels using a sewing needle. Place your pocket on the WS (inside) of the cardigan. Line it up so that the top of the pocket is aligned with Row 14. You will be sewing the top of the pocket to that row/just above it. The bottom of the pocket panel should line up with the top of the ribbing at Row 1 of the front panel. I recommend pinning your pocket in place. With your needle, sew all 4 sides. Make sure you don’t stick your needle all the way through to the front so that the seam is not visible on the outside. Don’t tug your stitches too tight. Be sure to view the video tutorial if you need a visual on how to sew the pocket. Tie off and repeat on other side.

Add Trim-

With your cardigan RS out, join yarn with a Sl St to the bottom corner of the left panel (right when worn).

Row 1: Ch 1, Sc evenly up the side of the front panel, across the back neckline, and down the side of the second front panel, turn. Exact St count is not crucial here, just try to keep your Sts even. I worked approximately 2 Sc into then end of each row along the sides of the front panels.

Fasten off and weave in any remaining ends.

CODE: STAR