The Ski Time Pullover Crochet Pattern

Which do you prefer… Teatime? Or Ski Time? The Ski Time Pullover is the sister design to The Teatime Cardigan! I decided to go with my same stitch pattern but wanted to make this one a solid color for a more subtle look! But…I do reallllly want to see someone make this one with different color stripes! I think it would be so cute!!

I used Heartland yarn for this design which is one of my favorite soft and cozy yarns. It’s the same yarn I used for The Stony Shore Cardigan and The Pemberly Pullover! Be sure to check them out if you want more heartland design! There are a ton of colors in Heartland to chose from and it’s really easy to work with. No snagging or catching on your hook and the sheen is beautiful! If you want a free copy of this PDF pattern and want to use Heartland yarn, then be sure to purchase my kit for the best deal!

The Ski Time Pullover is worked from the bottom up in separate panels. You can easily add more rows if you want a longer sweater! Just add as many rows as you want before the neckline shaping on the front panel, then add the same amount to the back! It’s also written with several inches of positive ease, so no need to size up. I’m wearing a size small in the photos!

I ended up not making a video tutorial for this pullover but the stitches/pattern repeat that I used in it are the same as The Teatime Cardigan! So if you need a little extra help you can always check out that video for some guidance!

Links:

• Grab The Ski Time Pullover as a Lion Brand yarn kit! The kit comes with all the yarn you need to make your own sweater and you can even customize the color! You will receive a free copy of the PDF digital download when you purchase the kit!

• The Ski Time Pullover does not have a full video tutorial. However, it uses the same stitch repeat/pattern as it’s sister design, The Teatime Cardigan! You can view The Teatime Cardigan video tutorial if you need a little extra help.

• Get a low cost ad-free printable PDF of The Ski Time Pullover from my Etsy shop!

• You can save The Ski Time Pullover for later, leave a heart to support me or purchase the low cost ad-free printable PDF from Ravelry!

Description:

The Ski Time Pullover is the sister pattern to The Teatime Cardigan! This is the perfect pullover to toss on, whether you’re hitting the slopes or staying cozy by the fire. It features a fun stitch pattern and a slouchy fit!

Materials:

• Worsted Weight (4) Yarn, Lion Brand Heartland in “White Sands”, 6(6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8) Skeins or 1270(1360, 1440, 1510,1590, 1680, 1770, 1840, 1900) yards.

• I/5.5mm Crochet Hook

• Needle

• Scissors

• Stitch Markers (3)

Gauge:

12.5 Hdc by 9 rows= 4×4”

Sizes:

XS(S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

Finished Measurements:

Notes:

• This sweater is made in separate panels and worked from the bottom up.

• The Ch 1 at the beginning of the rows do not count as a St.

• The Ch 2 at the beginning of the rows do not count as a St.

• The numbers in parenthesis at the beginning of the rows are your row count for all sizes.

• The numbers in parenthesis at the end of the rows are your stitch counts for all sizes.

• The numbers in parenthesis within the rows are your instructions for all sizes.

• To make your sweater longer, add as many rows as you would like to the back panel. Then, add the same amount of rows to the front panel before beginning the neckline shaping.

Video Link:

The stitches used here are the same in the cardigan version of this pattern! If you need some visual help with the stitches be sure to check out that video tutorial.

Stitches and Abbreviations (US Terms):

Fsc- Foundation Single Crochet

Fhdc- Foundation Half Double Crochet

Sc- Single Crochet

Hdc2tog- Half Double Crochet 2 Together (decrease)

Ch- Chain

St(s)- Stitches

BLO- Back Loop Only

RS- Right Side

WS- Wrong Side

Dc- Double Crochet

Sp- Space

Sk- Skip

Pattern:

Back Panel-

Row 1: 10 Fsc, turn. (10 Sc) Note- alternatively, you can Ch 11, work 1 Sc into the second Ch from the hook and each Ch across for 10 Sc.

Rows 2-68(74, 78, 84, 90, 94, 100, 106, 112): Ch 1, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across, turn.

Do not turn after your last row. We will now be working Row 1 of the main body of the panel into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Row 1 (RS): 1 Sc into the end of each row across, turn. (68(74, 78, 84, 90, 94, 100, 106, 112) Sc)

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count here and throughout), 1 Dc in each St across, turn. (68(74, 78, 84, 90, 94, 100, 106, 112) Dc)

Row 3: Ch 2, 1 Dc in first St, Note- You will be working the following Sts into the spaces in between each Dc from the row below instead of into the top of the St. The Sp is directly to the left of the St. View my YouTube tutorial if you need extra help. *Sk the next Sp, 1 Dc in following Sp, go back and work 1 Dc into the skipped Sp*, repeat from * to * across the row, 1 Dc in top of  last St, turn. (68(74, 78, 84, 90, 94, 100, 106, 112) Dc)

Row 4: Ch 2, 1 Dc in top of first St, 1 Dc into each Sp between Dc Sts across row, 1 Dc into the top of the last St, turn. (68(74, 78, 84, 90, 94, 100, 106, 112) Dc)

Row 5: Ch 2, 1 Dc in first St, 1 Sl St in next, * 1 Dc, 1 Sl St*, repeat from * to * across row, turn. (68(74, 78, 84, 90, 94, 100, 106, 112) Dc/Sl St)

Rows 6 & 7: Repeat Row 5.

Row 8: Ch 1, 1 Hdc in each St across, turn. (68(74, 78, 84, 90, 94, 100, 106, 112) Hdc)

Rows 9-12: Repeat Row 8.

Rows 13 & 14: Repeat Row 5.

Row 15: Repeat Row 2.

Row 16: Ch 2, 1 Dc into top of first St, 1 Dc into each Sp between Dc Sts across row, 1 Dc into the top of the last St, turn. (68(74, 78, 84, 90, 94, 100, 106, 112) Dc)

Rows 17 & 18: Repeat Row 5.

Rows 19-21: Repeat Row 8.

Row 22: Repeat Row 5.

Rows 23 & 24: Repeat Row 8.

Row 25: Ch 2, 1 Dc in first St, *Sk next St, 1 Dc in following St, go back and work 1 Dc into skipped St* repeat from * to * across row, 1 Dc in final St, turn. (68(74, 78, 84, 90, 94, 100, 106, 112) Dc)

Row 26: Repeat Row 5.

Rows 27-48(48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62): Repeat Row 8.

Fasten off.

Front Panel:

Repeat Ribbing Rows 1-68(74, 78, 84, 90, 94, 100, 106, 112) of the back panel and Rows 1-44(44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58) of the main body of the back panel.

Right Shoulder Shaping (left when worn)-

Row 45(45, 47, 49, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59): Ch 1, 24(27, 29, 32, 35, 37, 40, 43, 46) Hdc, turn. (24(27, 29, 32, 35, 37, 40, 43, 46) Hdc)

Row 46(46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60): Ch 1, 1 Hdc in each St across, turn.

Row 47(47, 49, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 61): Ch 1, 1 Hdc in each St across until 3 Sts remain, Hdc2tog, 1 Hdc in final St, turn. (23(26, 28, 31, 34, 36, 39, 42, 45) Hdc)

Row 48(48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62): Ch 1, 1 Hdc in first St, Hdc2tog, 1 Hdc in each remaining St across, turn. (22(25, 27, 30, 33, 35, 38, 41, 44) Hdc)

Fasten off, leave a long tail to sew last row to the back panel.

Left Shoulder (right when worn):

Place your front panel out in front of you, with the finished shoulder on the right hand side. Count 24(27, 29, 32, 35, 37, 40, 43, 46) Sts in towards the center of the neckline and join with a Sl St.

Row 45(45, 47, 49, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59): Ch 1, 1 Hdc into each remaining St across row, turn. (24(27, 29, 32, 35, 37, 40, 43, 46) Hdc)

Row 46(46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60): Ch 1, 1 Hdc in each St across, turn.

Row 47(47, 49, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 61): Ch 1, 1 Hdc in first St, Hdc2tog, 1 Hdc in each remaining St across, turn. (23(26, 28, 31, 34, 36, 39, 42, 45) Hdc)

Row 48(48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62): Ch 1, 1 Hdc in each St across until 3 Sts remain, Hdc2tog, 1 Hdc in final St, turn. (22(25, 27, 30, 33, 35, 38, 41, 44) Hdc)

Fasten off, leave a long tail to sew last row to the back panel.

Sleeves (make 2):

Row 1: 10 Fsc, turn. (10 Sc) Note- alternatively, you can Ch 11, work 1 Sc into the second Ch from the hook and each Ch across for 10 Sc.

Rows 2-27(28, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34): Ch 1, 1 Sc (BLO) in each St across, turn.

Do not turn after your last row. We will now be working Row 1 of the main body of the panel into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Row 1: Work 2 Sc into the end of each row across, turn. (54(56, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68) Sc) Note- your sleeve is going to look wavy and crazy for the first several rows! Don’t worry, this is normal!

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count here and throughout), 1 Dc in each St across, turn. (54(56, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68) Dc)

Row 3: Ch 2, 1 Dc in first St, Note- You will be working the following Sts into the spaces in between each Dc from the row below instead of into the top of the St. The Sp is directly to the left of the St. View my YouTube tutorial if you need extra help. *Sk the next Sp, 1 Dc in following Sp, go back and work 1 Dc into the skipped Sp*, repeat from * to * across the row, 1 Dc in top of  last St, turn. (54(56, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68) Dc)

Row 4: Ch 2, 1 Dc in top of first St, 1 Dc into each Sp between Dc Sts across row, 1 Dc into the top of the last St, turn. (54(56, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68) Dc)

Row 5: Ch 2, 1 Dc in first St, 1 Sl St in next, * 1 Dc, 1 Sl St*, repeat from * to * across row, turn. (54(56, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68) Dc/Sl St)

Rows 6 & 7: Repeat Row 5.

Row 8: Ch 1, 1 Hdc in each St across, turn. (54(56, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68) Hdc)

Rows 9-12: Repeat Row 8.

Rows 13 & 14: Repeat Row 5.

Row 15: Repeat Row 2.

Row 16: Ch 2, 1 Dc into top of first St, 1 Dc into each Sp between Dc Sts across row, 1 Dc into the top of the last St, turn. (54(56, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68) Dc)

Rows 17 & 18: Repeat Row 5.

Rows 19-21: Repeat Row 8.

Row 22: Repeat Row 5.

Rows 23 & 24: Repeat Row 8.

Row 25: Ch 2, 1 Dc in first St, *Sk next St, 1 Dc in following St, go back and work 1 Dc into skipped St* repeat from * to * across row, 1 Dc in final St, turn.

Row 26: Repeat Row 5.

Row 27-35(35, 35, 35, 35, 33, 33, 33, 33) : Repeat Row 8.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing last row of front panels to the back panel. Note- This is an oversized drop-sleeve style cardigan. The wider the front/back panels are, the shorter the sleeve needs to be because they join further down your bicep. That’s why the smaller sizes have more rows than the larger. You an easily adjust your sleeve length by adding or taking away as many rows as desired before fastening off.

Assembly:

If needed, block your panels to the measurements listed above. I prefer to steam block mine but you can use the method of your choice.

Place your front and back panels together, RS facing. Using your preferred seaming method attach the front panel to the back panel at the shoulders (I used my hook and slip stitched across). Be sure your panels are aligned and that you aren’t bunching or skipping stitches.

Next, using the same joining process as above, we will be attaching the sleeves to the sweater. Make sure the center of the sleeve is aligned with the shoulder seam. Be sure to check that your sleeves are even on both the front and back panel as you go. It is helpful to use SM’s here to keep your sleeve in place as you join.

Finally, fold your sweater so that the back and front panels are on top of each other, RS facing. Seam from the cuffs to the underarm and down the side of the sweater.

Neckline Trim:

With your sweater RS out and facing up, join yarn with a Sl St near the left shoulder seam at the neckline.

Round 1: Ch 1, 1 Sc in same St and each St across the back of the neckline, Sc evenly down the side of the front panel (the shaping rows), 1 Sc in each St across the front neckline and evenly up the other side, join with a Sl St to the first Sc made. Note- exact St count is not crucial here, just try and work your stitches evenly.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

CODE: SKI