The Towhee Cardigan Crochet Pattern

I love trying out new yarns so of course I was excited to stitch up something with this new Re-Make yarn from Lion Brand! The Towhee Cardigan crochet pattern might just be one of my new faves!  It’s available in a kit (yarn and pattern) with Lion Brand!

The girls helped me name this cardigan, which I think is so fun. It was a beautiful sunny day and finally starting to warm up after lots of bad weather. We went on a family outing to a local trail for the cardigan photoshoot! Along the trail they have signs and photos talking about the local nature and wildlife. The last one we stopped at was for the Towhee bird! The girls were reading the sign when it popped into my head that it would be the perfect name!

This yarn was really nice to work with. It has such a soft texture making it super cozy. Because it’s starting to become spring time I wanted to go with a more open lace stitch for this design. It makes it the perfect cardigan for layering and transitioning into warm weather!

You can adjust the length of your cardigan if you want by adding or removing stitches in multiples of 12 to Row 1. Take into account this will make your stitch count different in the subsequent rows of the pattern. You can also make your sleeves longer or shorter by adding or removing rows in multiples of 2, before the cuff section. If you don’t want pockets you can easily skip over those instructions in Row 4 and work the normal St repeat, although I think it’s super cute with them!

In one of the row repeats we work in the front loop only to give the outside more texture. When you wear a crochet cardigan it naturally pulls down with the weight of being worn. I noticed that it does tug at the stitches at the shoulder area slightly, giving more of an open lace look. If you prefer, you can work under both loops instead to keep the stitching tighter!

I love creating video tutorials to go along with the pattern! I think it’s so helpful if you are a visual learner or a beginner and just need a little extra help! You can find the video tutorial on my YouTube Channel!

If you like this cardigan, be sure to check out my other free cardigan patterns here!

Links:

• A kit is available with Lion Brand! The kit comes with all the yarn needed to make your cardigan plus a FREE copy of the PDF digital download of the pattern. You can even customize your yarn color.

• Check out my full video tutorial on my YouTube Channel!

• The low cost ad-free printable PDF of the Towhee Cardigan crochet pattern is in my Etsy shop!

• Or save the Towhee Cardigan crochet pattern to your queue on Ravelry. You can also find the low cost ad-free PDF here.

Description:

Stay cozy and stylish with the Towhee Cardigan! Made with super soft yarn, this design features a delicate lace-like stitch that’s perfect for layering. The ribbed edges and cuffs add a polished touch, while the roomy pockets make it as practical as it is pretty. A full video tutorial is included for extra pattern guidance!

Materials:

• Worsted (4) Weight Yarn, Lion Brand Re-make in Seaspray, 6(6, 7, 7, 8, 8) skeins or 1100(1210, 1320, 1450, 1540, 1630) Yards

• J/6.00mm Crochet Hook

• Needle

• Scissors

• Stitch Markers (3)

Gauge:

6 Rows by 15 Sts= 4×4”

To make a gauge swatch, follow the instructions for the pocket panel. Then, measure within the swatch to check gauge.

Sizes:

XS(S/M, L, XL/2X, 3X, 4X/5X)

Finished Measurements:

Notes:

• This cardigan is worked vertically in 2 separate main body panels. The sleeve panels are made top down and all pieces are sewn together.

• The starting Ch 3 does count as 1 Dc St.

• The cardigan may stretch with the weight of being worn, causing a more open stitch look at the shoulders, due to working in the FLO. If you prefer a tighter weave with less stretch you can work through both the front and back loop instead of the FLO.

• To adjust the sleeve length, add or remove rows in multiples of 2 just before the cuff section.

• The starting Ch 1 and Ch 2 of the cuff sections of the sleeves do not count as a St.

• If you don’t want pockets you can skip the Ch instructions within row 4  of the left/right panel and simply continue the St repeat as normal.

Video Link:

Need a little extra help? Check out my full video tutorial here!

Stitches and Abbreviations (US Terms):

Ch(s)- Chain(s)

Dc- Double Crochet

Sk- Skip

St(s)- Stitch(es)

FLO- Front Loop Only

RS- Right Side

Sc- Single Crochet

Sc2tog- Single Crochet 2 Together

Hdc- Half Double Crochet

FPHDC- Front Post Half Double Crochet

BPHDC- Back Post Half Double Crochet

Pattern:

Right Panel (when worn)-

Ch 184(196, 208, 220, 232, 244)

Row 1: 1 Dc in the 5th Ch from the hook (skipped Chs count as 1 Dc), Sk 1 Ch, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] in next Ch, *Sk 2 Chs, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] in next Ch*, repeat from * to * across until 3 Chs remains, Sk 1, 1 Dc in last 2 Chs, turn. (181(193, 205, 217, 229, 241) Sts)

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3(counts as 1 Dc here and throughout), Sk 2 Sts, 5 Dc in first Ch-1 Sp, *Sk 2 Sts, 1 Dc in next Ch-1 Sp, Sk 2 Sts, 5 Dc in following Ch-1 Sp*,  repeat from * to * across the row until 3 Sts remain, Sk 2, 1 Dc in final St (the top of the starting Ch), turn. (181(193, 205, 217, 229, 241) Sts)

Row 3: Ch 3, 1 Dc (FLO) in next St, Sk 1 St, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc (FLO)]  in following St, *Sk 2 Sts, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc (FLO)] in next St*, repeat from * to * across the row until 3 Sts remain, Sk 1 St, 1 Dc (FLO) in next, 1 Dc in last St (the top of the turning Ch), turn. (181(193, 205, 217, 229, 241) Sts)

Row 4: Ch 3, Sk 2 Sts, *5 Dc in first Ch-1 Sp, Sk 2 Sts, 1 Dc in next Ch-1 Sp*, repeat from * to * 1(1, 2, 2, 3, 3) more time(s),  Ch 23, Sk next 23 Sts, 1 Dc in next Ch-1 Sp, Sk 2 Sts, 5 Dc in following Ch-1 Sp, *Sk 2 Sts, 1 Dc in next Ch-1 Sp, Sk 2 Sts, 5 Dc in following Ch-1 Sp*, repeat from * to * across row until 3 Sts remain, Sk 2, 1 dc in final St, turn. (181(193, 205, 217, 229, 241) Sts) Note- The Ch’s for the pocket hole are included in St count.

Row 5: Ch 3, 1 Dc (FLO) in next St, Sk 1 St, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc (FLO)]  in following St, *Sk 2 Sts, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc (FLO)] in next St*, repeat from * to * across the row until you reach the pocket hole opening, continue with the St repeat working into the Chs just as you would a normal St, **Sk 2 Chs, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] in next Ch**, repeat from ** to ** across until 2 Chs remain, Sk last 2 Chs, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 DC (FLO)] in next St, repeat from * to * across remainder of row until 3 Sts remain, Sk 1 St, 1 Dc (FLO) in next, 1 Dc in last St, turn. (181(193, 205, 217, 229, 241) Sts)

Rows 6-11(13, 15, 17, 19, 21): Repeat Rows 2 & 3.

Fasten off and TURN after last row made. We will now be joining back into the panel half way across to split the neckline and complete the back panel portion.

Count over 91(97, 103, 109, 115, 121)  Sts and join your yarn with a Sl St into that  St (the Ch-1 Sp).

Row 12(14, 16, 18, 20, 22): Repeat Row 2. (91(97, 103, 109, 115, 121) Sts)

Row 13(15, 17, 19, 21, 23): Repeat Row 3. (91(97, 103, 109, 115, 121) Sts)

Row 14(16, 18, 20, 22, 24): Repeat Row 2. (91(97, 103, 109, 115, 121) Sts)

Row 15(17, 19, 21, 23, 25): Repeat Row 3. (91(97, 103, 109, 115, 121) Sts)

Fasten off.

Left Panel (when worn)-

Ch 184(196, 208, 220, 232, 244)

Row 1: 1 Dc in the 5th Ch from the hook (skipped Chs count as 1 Dc), Sk 1 Ch, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] in next Ch, *Sk 2 Chs, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] in next Ch*, repeat from * to * across until 3 Chs remains, Sk 1, 1 Dc in last 2 Chs, turn. (181(193, 205, 217, 229, 241) Sts)

Row 2(RS): Ch 3(counts as 1 Dc here and throughout), Sk 2 Sts, 5 Dc in first Ch-1 Sp, *Sk 2 Sts, 1 Dc in next Ch-1 Sp, Sk 2 Sts, 5 Dc in following Ch-1 Sp*,  repeat from * to * across the row until 3 Sts remain, Sk 2, 1 Dc in final St (the top of the starting Ch), turn. (181(193, 205, 217, 229, 241) Sts)

Row 3: Ch 3, 1 Dc (FLO) in next St, Sk 1 St, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc (FLO)]  in following St, *Sk 2 Sts, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc (FLO)] in next St*, repeat from * to * across the row until 3 Sts remain, Sk 1 St, 1 Dc (FLO) in next, 1 Dc in last St (the top of the turning Ch), turn. (181(193, 205, 217, 229, 241) Sts)

Row 4: Ch 3, Sk 2 Sts, *5 Dc in first Ch-1 Sp, Sk 2 Sts, 1 Dc in next Ch-1 Sp*, repeat from * to * until 36(36, 42, 42, 48, 48) Sts remain, Ch 23, Sk next 23 Sts, 1 Dc in next Ch-1 Sp, Sk 2 Sts, 5 Dc in following Ch-1 Sp, continue with normal pattern repeat across until 3 Sts remain, Sk 2, 1 Dc in last St, turn. (181(193, 205, 217, 229, 241) Sts) Note- The Ch’s for the pocket hole are included in St count.

Row 5: Ch 3, 1 Dc (FLO) in next St, Sk 1 St, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc (FLO)]  in following St, *Sk 2 Sts, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc (FLO)] in next St*, repeat from * to * across the row until you reach the pocket hole opening, continue with the St repeat working into the Chs just as you would a normal St, **Sk 2 Chs, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] in next Ch**, repeat from ** to ** across until 2 Chs remain, Sk last 2 Chs, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 DC (FLO)] in next St, repeat from * to * across remainder of row until 3 Sts remain, Sk 1 St, 1 Dc (FLO) in next, 1 Dc in last St, turn. (181(193, 205, 217, 229, 241) Sts)

Rows 6-11(13, 15, 17, 19, 21): Repeat Rows 2 & 3.

Turn you work after the last row made, do NOT fasten off. We will now only be working half way across the row to split the neckline and complete the back panel portion.

Row 12(14, 16, 18, 20, 22): Ch 3(counts as 1 Dc here and throughout), Sk 2 Sts, 5 Dc in first Ch-1 Sp, *Sk 2 Sts, 1 Dc in next Ch-1 Sp, Sk 2 Sts, 5 Dc in following Ch-1 Sp*,  repeat from * to * across row 13(14, 15, 16, 17, 18) more times, Sk 2 Sts, 1 Dc in next Ch-1 Sp, turn. (91(97, 103, 109, 115, 121) Sts)

Row 13(15, 17, 19, 21, 23): Repeat Row 3. (91(97, 103, 109, 115, 121) Sts)

Row 14(16, 18, 20, 22, 24): Repeat Row 2. (91(97, 103, 109, 115, 121) Sts)

Row 15(17, 19, 21, 23, 25): Repeat Row 3. (91(97, 103, 109, 115, 121) Sts)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming the last row made of the left panel to the last row made of the right panel.

Sleeves (make 2)-

Start with a long tail so you can later seam Row 1 of the sleeve to your sweater.

Ch 52(58, 64, 64, 70, 76)

Row 1: 1 Dc in the 5th Ch from the hook (skipped Chs count as 1 Dc), Sk 1 Ch, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] in next Ch, *Sk 2 Chs, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] in next Ch*, repeat from * to * across until 3 Chs remains, Sk 1, 1 Dc in last 2 Chs, turn. (49(55, 61, 61, 67, 73) Sts)

Row 2(RS): Ch 3(counts as 1 Dc here and throughout), Sk 2 Sts, 5 Dc in first Ch-1 Sp, *Sk 2 Sts, 1 Dc in next Ch-1 Sp, Sk 2 Sts, 5 Dc in following Ch-1 Sp*,  repeat from * to * across the row until 3 Sts remain, Sk 2, 1 Dc in final St (the top of the starting Ch), turn.(49(55, 61, 61, 67, 73) Sts)

Row 3: Ch 3, 1 Dc (FLO) in next St, Sk 1 St, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc (FLO)]  in following St, *Sk 2 Sts, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc (FLO)] in next St*, repeat from * to * across the row until 3 Sts remain, Sk 1 St, 1 Dc (FLO) in next, 1 Dc in last St (the top of the turning Ch), turn.(49(55, 61, 61, 67, 73) Sts)

Rows 4-23(23, 23, 21, 21, 21): Repeat Rows 2 & 3.

Row 24(24, 24, 22, 22, 22): Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St and Ch Sp across, turn. (49(55, 61, 61, 67, 73) Sc)

Row 25(25, 25, 23, 23, 23): Ch 1, *Sc2tog*, repeat from * to * across row until 1 St remains, 1 Sc in final St, turn. (25(28, 31, 31, 34, 37) Sts)

Row 26(26, 26, 24, 24, 24): Ch 2, 1 Hdc in each St across, turn. (25(28, 31, 31, 34, 37) Hdc)

Row 27(27, 27, 25, 25, 25): Ch 2, 1 Hdc in first St, *1 FPHDC, 1 BPHDC* repeat from * to * across row until 1 St remains, 1 Hdc in final St, turn. (25(28, 31, 31, 34, 37) Hdc)

Row 28(28, 28, 26, 26, 26): Repeat previous row.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming the cuff to the underarm.

Note- This is an oversized drop-shoulder style cardigan. The wider the front/back panels are, the shorter the sleeve needs to be because they join further down your bicep. That’s why the smaller sizes have more rows than the larger. You an easily adjust your sleeve length by adding or taking away as many rows as needed before beginning the “cuff”.

Pocket panels(make 2)-

Ch 28

Row 1: 1 Dc in the 5th Ch from the hook (skipped Chs count as 1 Dc), Sk 1 Ch, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] in next Ch, *Sk 2 Chs, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] in next Ch*, repeat from * to * across until 3 Chs remains, Sk 1, 1 Dc in last 2 Chs, turn. (25 Sts)

Row 2(RS): Ch 3(counts as 1 Dc here and throughout), Sk 2 Sts, 5 Dc in first Ch-1 Sp, *Sk 2 Sts, 1 Dc in next Ch-1 Sp, Sk 2 Sts, 5 Dc in following Ch-1 Sp*,  repeat from * to * across the row until 3 Sts remain, Sk 2, 1 Dc in final St (the top of the starting Ch), turn. (25 Sts)

Row 3: Ch 3, 1 Dc (FLO) in next St, Sk 1 St, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc (FLO)]  in following St, *Sk 2 Sts, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc (FLO)] in next St*, repeat from * to * across the row until 3 Sts remain, Sk 1 St, 1 Dc (FLO) in next, 1 Dc in last St (the top of the turning Ch), turn. (25 Sts)

Rows 4-9(11, 13, 15, 17, 19): Repeat Rows 2 & 3.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming 3 sides of the pocket panel to your cardigan.

Assemble-

Block your panels to the measurements listed above. I recommend a steam block.

Place your Left and Right Panel together, RS facing. Using your preferred seaming method, attach the last rows made on your panels together. I used a needle and did the mattress stitch across. Be sure your panels are aligned and that you aren’t bunching or skipping stitches.

Next, using the same joining process as above, we will be attaching the sleeves to the cardigan. Make sure the center stitch of the sleeve is aligned with the center stitch of the left/right panel. Be sure to check that your sleeves are even on both the front and back panel as you go. It is helpful to use SM’s here to keep your sleeve in place as you join.

Finally, fold your cardigan so that the back and front panels are on top of each other, RS facing. Seam from the cuffs to the underarm and down the side of the cardigan.

Sew Pockets-

Place your first pocket panel on the inside of your cardigan, RS down. Line up Row 1 of your pocket panel to the row just before the pocket opening. The last row of your pocket panel should line up with the edge of your sweater. Make sure your stitches and rows are lined up correctly with your cardigan. Pin your pocket panel in place. Sew down the side of the panel, across the bottom and up the other side. Leave the edge of the last row un-sewn. You will crochet it shut when you add the trim rows. Repeat the same process with the second pocket panel on the other side.

Trim-

With your cardigan RS out, join yarn with a Sl St to the bottom corner of the front panel on your left.

Row 1: Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St along the side of the front panel, when you reach the pocket, work your hook through both the pocket panel and the stitches on the front panel. Sc evenly across the back neckline working approximately 2 Sts for each row. 1 Sc in each St along the side of the second front panel, when you reach the pocket panel, work your hook through both the pocket panel and the stitches on the front panel. Stop when you reach the bottom corner, turn. (196(208, 220, 232, 244, 256) Sc) Note- exact St count is not crucial if you find that you need to adjust slightly, just be sure to end with an even number of stitches.

Row 2: Ch 2, 1 Hdc in each St across, turn. (196(208, 220, 232, 244, 256) Hdc)

Row 3: Ch 2, Ch 2, 1 Hdc in first St, *1 FPHDC, 1 BPHDC* repeat from * to * across row until 1 St remains, 1 Hdc in final St, turn. (196(208, 220, 232, 244, 256) Hdc)

Row 4: Repeat Row 3.

Fasten off.

Finally, with your cardigan RS facing and upside down, join yarn with a Sl St to the bottom corner of the cardigan. Ch 1, Sc evenly across the bottom of the front panel, back panel and second front panel until you reach the next corner, working approximately 2 Sc for each row.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

CODE: TOWHEE