The Sleepy Seaside Sweater Crochet Pattern

Several months ago I designed the Starlight View Throw using a super fun yarn carrying technique to give it a very pretty and unique look. I loved working it up so much that I made a top using the same technique! The Sleepy Seaside Sweater crochet pattern turned out just as I imagined!!

I wanted my top to be long sleeve but still have a light and breathable wear to it. I used a double crochet offset V-St to give it a bit of a mesh look. It has a loose and boxy fit with a wide neckline to be worn off the shoulder! It is sooo cozy too! If you want a more fitted neck instead of “off the shoulder” you can add more rounds to your trim for an easy adjustment.

To give the Sleepy Seaside Sweater its mixed yarn look, you will be carrying a secondary yarn throughout. You will only ever be making your stitches with Yarn A and bringing along Yarn B as you go. Be sure to check out my video tutorial if you are new to this technique, I show you exactly how to do it! For my secondary yarn I used a “prints” version of the 24/7 Cotton Dk. This has random colors added throughout the skein so if you use the same yarn, each sweater will have its own unique look! Check out the kit here!

If you like the Sleepy Seaside Sweater crochet pattern then be sure to check out my other free top patterns here!

Links:

• Find The Sleepy Seaside Sweater crochet pattern as a kit with Lion Brand! The kit comes with all the yarn needed to make your top plus you can customize your yarn colors. You get a FREE copy of the PDF printable download with the kit.

• A full video tutorial of The Sleepy Seaside Sweater crochet pattern is available on my YouTube Channel. Be sure to check it out if you are a beginner or just need a little extra help!

• Find the low cost ad-free printable PDF of the Sleepy Seaside Crochet Pattern in my Etsy shop!

• Save the Sleepy Seaside Crochet Pattern to your Ravelry queue or purchase the low cost ad-free printable PDF!

Description:

The Sleepy Seaside Sweater is like a deep breath of salty air. With its relaxed, boxy shape and wide neckline designed for that effortless off-the-shoulder look, this sweater is made for slow mornings and seaside sunsets. The slightly open, mesh-like stitches make it lightweight and breathable, while long cuffed sleeves add that perfect touch of coziness. A contrasting yarn is carried through the stitches to create a dreamy, wave-like effect—no two sweaters will ever be quite the same. Includes a full video tutorial so you can stitch along at your own pace.

Materials:

• Light (3) Weight Yarn, 24/7 Cotton DK in Nightshade 3(3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6) skeins or 730(800, 860, 950, 1030, 1110, 1200, 1290, 1380) yards

• Light (3) Weight Yarn, 24/7 Cotton DK in Azul 1(1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3) Skeins) 190(210, 250, 270, 310, 350, 390, 440, 470) Yards

• H/5.00mm Crochet Hook

• Needle

• Scissors

• Stitch Markers (3)

Gauge:

16 Sts by 7.5 Rows= 4×4”

To make a gauge swatch, work 27 Fsc. Then, follow instructions for rows 2-10 of the back panel. Your swatch will be larger than the required gauge. Measure 4×4” within the swatch to check gauge.

Sizes:

XS(S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

Video Link:

Need a little extra help? Check out the full video tutorial here!

Finished Measurements:

Notes:

• This top is made in separate panels and seamed together.

• We are going to be using the method of “carrying yarn” to create this top. Your stitches are made using Yarn A. Yarn B is carried throughout, starting in Row 2. Please check out the linked video tutorial to learn how.

• The Ch 3 at the beginning of the row counts as 1 St.

• The Ch-1 Sp counts as 1 St.

• Add or remove as many rows before the neckline shaping to adjust the length of your sweater. Take into account this will alter the yardage requirements above. Add or remove the same amount of rows to your back panel. Sleeves can also be adjusted the same way.

• The parenthesis at the beginning of the row are the row counts for all 9 sizes. The parenthesis at the end of the row are the stitch counts for all 9 sizes. The parenthesis within the row are the instructions for all 9 sizes.

Stitches and Abbreviations (US Terms):

Fsc- Foundation Single Crochet

Sc- Single Crochet
Ch(s)- Chain
Dc- Double Crochet

St(s)- Stitch(es)
Sk- Skip
Sp- Space
Sl St- Slip Stitch
RS- Right Side
WS- Wrong Side

Yarn A- 24/7 Cotton DK “Nightshade”

Yarn B- 24/7 Cotton DK “Azul”

How To Carry Yarn B Throughout The Pattern:

Below is the info on how to carry Yarn B throughout. I highly recommend checking out the video tutorial for a quick visual on carrying your yarn correctly.

• On the last St of Row 1 we will be brining in Yarn B to begin carrying. Right before the final YO and pull through of the Sc, place yarn B on your hook and finish your St still with Yarn A to attach.

• You will always be working your Sts with Yarn A and Carrying Yarn B.

• For the Starting Ch 3’s, place Yarn B on your hook from front to back, then work a Ch like normal with Yarn A, doing so 3 times.

• To carry the yarn through the Dc V-Sts with Yarn A, you will YO and insert hook into indicated St. Next, make sure Yarn B is placed across the top of your hook. Then, YO and pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2, now place Yarn B over hook from front to back, YO and pull through both loops to finish your Dc. For the Ch 1, place Yarn B on hook from front to back, YO and pull through. Repeat the same steps for the previous Dc to finish.

Pattern:

Back Panel- With Yarn A

Row 1(RS): 81(87, 93, 102, 111, 117, 126, 132, 138) Fsc, turn. (81(87, 93, 102, 111, 117, 126, 132, 138) Sc) Alternatively, you can 1 more than the number listed above, work 1 Sc into the second Ch from the hook and across for the same St count.

Don’t forget to bring in Yarn B at the end of Row 1. Follow the instructions above and the video tutorial to learn how to carry the yarn for the remainder of the top.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 Dc here and throughout), 1 Dc in same St, Sk 1, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] into next St, *Sk 2, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] in next*, repeat from * to * across row until 3 remain, Sk 2, 1 Dc in last, turn. (81(87, 93, 102, 111, 117, 126, 132, 138) Sts)

Row 3: Ch 3, 1 Dc in same St, *Sk 2 (skipping the Dc and the Ch-1 Sp), [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] into next St*, repeat from * to * across row until 2 remain, Sk 1, 1 Dc in last (top of turning ch), turn. (81(87, 93, 102, 111, 117, 126, 132, 138) Sts)

Rows 4-32(32, 34, 36, 36, 38, 40, 42, 42): Repeat Row 3.

Fasten off.

Front Panel- With Yarn A

Row 1(RS): 81(87, 93, 102, 111, 117, 126, 132, 138) Fsc, turn. (81(87, 93, 102, 111, 117, 126, 132, 138) Sc) Alternatively, you can 1 more than the number listed above, work 1 Sc into the second Ch from the hook and across for the same St count.

Don’t forget to bring in Yarn B at the end of Row 1.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 Dc here and throughout), 1 Dc in same St, Sk 1, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] into next St, *Sk 2, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] in next*, repeat from * to * across row until 3 remain, Sk 2, 1 Dc in last, turn. (81(87, 93, 102, 111, 117, 126, 132, 138) Sts)

Row 3: Ch 3, 1 Dc in same St, *Sk 2 (skipping the Dc and the Ch-1 Sp), [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] into next St*, repeat from * to * across row until 2 remain, Sk 1, 1 Dc in last (top of turning ch), turn. (81(87, 93, 102, 111, 117, 126, 132, 138) Sts)

Rows 4-28(28, 30, 32, 32, 34, 36, 38, 38): Repeat Row 3.

We will now be splitting the neckline-

Row 29(29, 31, 33, 33, 35, 37, 39, 39): Ch 3, 1 Dc in same St, *Sk 2 (skipping the Dc and the Ch-1 Sp), [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] into next St*, repeat from * to * 6(7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14) more times, Sk 1 St, 1 Dc in next St, turn. (24(27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48) Sts)

Rows 30(30, 32, 34, 34, 36, 38, 40, 40)-32(32, 34, 36, 36, 38, 40, 42, 42): Repeat Row 3.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming the last row to your back panel.

Opposite Shoulder (right when worn)-

Create a slip knot with both Yarn A and B on your hook.

With your panel out in front of you and the finished shoulder on the right hand side, count 24(27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48) Sts in from the left towards the center of the panel and Sl St to join with Yarn A (Yarn B is still attached to the hook as well).

Rows 29(29, 31, 33, 33, 35, 37, 39, 39)-32(32, 34, 36, 36, 38, 40, 42, 42): Repeat Row 3.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming the last row to your back panel.

Sleeves (make 2)-

With Yarn A (leave a long starting tail for seaming the first row made to your sweater)

Row 1(RS): 48(51, 54, 57, 63, 69, 72, 78, 78) Fsc, turn. (48(51, 54, 57, 63, 69, 72, 78, 78) Sc) Alternatively, you can 1 more than the number listed above, work 1 Sc into the second Ch from the hook and across for the same St count.

Don’t forget to bring in Yarn B at the end of Row 1.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 Dc here and throughout), 1 Dc in same St, Sk 1, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] into next St, *Sk 2, [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] in next*, repeat from * to * across row until 3 remain, Sk 2, 1 Dc in last, turn. (48(51, 54, 57, 63, 69, 72, 78, 78) Sts)

Row 3: Ch 3, 1 Dc in same St, *Sk 2 (skipping the Dc and the Ch-1 Sp), [1 Dc, Ch 1, 1 Dc] into next St*, repeat from * to * across row until 2 remain, Sk 1, 1 Dc in last (top of turning ch), turn. (48(51, 54, 57, 63, 69, 72, 78, 78) Sts)

Rows 4-32(32, 32, 30, 30, 30, 28, 28, 28): Repeat Row 3.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming the cuff to the underarm.

Note- This is an oversized drop-shoulder style pullover. The wider the front/back panels are, the shorter the sleeve needs to be because they join further down your bicep. That’s why the smaller sizes have more rows than the larger. You an easily adjust your sleeve length by adding or taking away as many rows as needed. Sleeves are written with length to cuff.

Assembly-

Block your panels to the measurements listed above. I recommend a steam block.

Place your front and back panels together RS facing.
Using your preferred seaming method attach the front panel to the back panel at the shoulders (I used a needle and did the mattress stitch across). Be sure your panels are aligned and that you aren’t bunching or skipping stitches.
Next, using the same joining process as above, we will be attaching the sleeves to the pullover. Make sure the center of the sleeve is aligned

with the shoulder seam. Be sure to check that your sleeves are even on both the front and back panel as you go. It is helpful to use SM’s here to keep your sleeve in place as you join.
Finally, fold your pullover so that the back and front panels are on top of each other, RS facing. Seam from the cuffs to the underarm and down the side of the pullover.

Neckline Trim-

With your top RS out, join yarn with a Sl St to the left of the shoulder seam on the left side. Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St across the back panel, Sc evenly down the side of the front panel shaping, working approximately 2 Sc per row, 1 Sc in each St across the front neckline, Sc evenly up the final side working approximately 2 Sc per row. Sl St to the first Sc made to join. Note- St count is not crucial here. If you want a smaller neckline and less of a “off the shoulder” look, simply add more rounds to the neckline trim until you reach your desired fit.

Fasten off and weave in any remaining ends.

 

CODE: SLEEPY